Using only one ascender? - Petzl United Kingdom
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Using only one ascender?

One ascender is not trustworthy; it is recommended to use two ascenders together and/or to use a backup belay system.

Warnings

  • Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
  • It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
  • Mastering these techniques requires training.
  • Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.

1. One ascender is not trustworthy

Trusting the belay to a single ascender in motion on the rope is risky.

There is a risk of the ascender coming off the rope:

Accidental opening of the safety catch is possible while ascending.

There is a risk of the ascender slipping on the rope:

Excessive mud or ice on the rope, holding the cam open due to poor hand positioning, foreign objects interfering with the cam (branches, pack straps or clothing), worn teeth...

There is risk of disconnecting the ascender's lanyard, if the carabiner opens (rubbing).

Note:

Breaking strength is not an issue when a single ascender is used by one person.

All of the certification tests, and Petzl's internal tests, are done on a single ascender. 

Note:

When an ascender is weighted on a rope, it is nearly impossible to cause it to disengage or slip. It's when the ascender is unweighted and/or moving on the rope that there is a risk of slippage or separation from the rope.

 

2. Differences between a chest ascender and an ascender on a lanyard

Differences between a chest ascender and an ascender on a lanyard

Chest ascender

The chest ascender is connected directly to the harness without extension. Its stable position allows for good rope glide.

The user takes care to avoid creating a loop of slack when progressing, thus maintaining a low potential fall length.

Chest ascender

 

 

Ascender on a lanyard (or progression ascender)

A lanyard offers more freedom of movement to the user, who can mistakenly find himself above his ascender or with a slack lanyard. This creates potential for a fall. As with the chest ascender, one must also monitor the tension in the rope between the ascender and the anchor. Any loop of slack is dangerous.

Ascender on a lanyard

 

Note:

The ascender standards partially cover the risk of falling on a slack lanyard.

The EN 12841 type B standard (ascenders for work): fall test on a dynamic lanyard, ascender on a semi-static rope at 1 m from the anchor. Test with the mass engraved on the ascender (140 kg for ASCENSION, BASIC, CROLL on compatible rope diameters greater than 10mm).

EN 567 standard (ascenders for sport): no fall test.

Petzl's internal testing complement the requirements of the standards by being based on realistic usage scenarios.

These tests ensure that the ascenders do not tear the rope in the most unfavorable conditions (fall of the length of the lanyard, 1 m from the anchor, 80 kg dummy, ropes of compatible diameters).
 

3. Different modes of ascender use

Rope ascent

The user is hanging on a progression rope.

The recommended rope ascent system includes a chest ascender (CROLL) and an ascender on a lanyard (BASIC, ASCENSION).

As a single ascender is not trustworthy, it is recommended to use two ascenders, both attached to the harness.

Rope ascent

 

 

Progression along a fixed rope

The user is on his feet, using one or more ascenders for self-belay and as an aid to progression.

The user has his hands free to slide the ascenders along the safety rope, while always keeping it taut.

If there is a low probability of a fall, using one ascender is possible; the rope must always stay taut between the ascender and the anchor.

 

Progression along a fixed rope

 

Self-belayed climbing

The user is focused on climbing, belayed by ascenders that follow his progression. The user does not have his hands free to manage ascender position and rope tension.

A fall is likely in this technical climbing situation, so it is recommended to use two ascenders attached to the harness.

This particular ascender use situation is detailed here: http://www.petzl.com/fr/outdoor/product-experience/auto-assurage/introduction

 

Self-belayed climbing