Tests - Petzl USA



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The following tests were done in labs; they were done on new ropes and devices, but it is impossible to recreate every scenario. Warning: we did not test every rope on the market; the results of these tests could be different with other types of rope.

The test values are given for information only, to give an idea of the loads involved in such situations.

Values recorded during tests with new Petzl ropes, certified to current European standards (EN 1891, EN 892). Certain tests were also done on new static ropes of different brands.

1. Dynamic test

Test conditions

- Rope length: 2 m

- Mass: 100 kg

- Fall factor: 1

The values given are averages; they vary depending on the rope models used.

Dynamic test
Diameter Dynamic loading Impact force Slippage
10.5 mm dynamic 5.7 kN 33 cm
10.5 mm low stretch kernmantel 6 kN 83 cm
11 m low stretch kernmantel 6.5 kN 80 cm
11.5 mm low stretch kernmantel 7 kN 62 cm
11.5 mm static 10 kN 15 cm
Fall factor 1

2. Static test:

These tests were done using a slow pull.

Diameter Dynamic loading (rappel) Onset of slippage
10.5 mm low stretch kernmantel 5.4 kN
11 mm low stretch kernmantel 6.9 kN
11.5 m low stretch kernmantel 6.3 kN
11 mm static 4.8 kN - stiff rope
11 mm static >10 kN - supple rope

3. Belaying with device attached to the anchor: 150 kg

Extreme use case:

Fall factor 0.3 tests were done with a rigid 150 kg mass, falling 1 m onto 3 m of rope. The mass could be lowered after the test.

The energy in play is:

E = 150 x 9,81 x 1 that is E = 1471 Joules. This test represents a case of extreme usage for the RIG.

Also, the test conditions were demanding:

- On new ropes.

- With the 150 kg rigid mass, direct.

In reality, the conditions are often more favorable because there are more rub points. The load is rarely transmitted directly; there are usually directional or rub points between the load and the anchor.

The shock forces obtained in these falls are all between 6 and 7 kN, thanks to the slippage of the rope in the device (on low stretch kernmantel ropes). These results are slightly higher on static ropes (for example NFPA light use certified ropes): from 0.5 kN to 1 kN.

The slippage in the brake hand is more than 100 cm.

These tests showed the importance of limiting slack in the rope and of ALWAYS keeping a firm grip on the brake side of the rope.

Holding the brake side of the rope allows rope slippage in the device to be minimized.

Static test