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Tech tips for mountaineering

Traveling across glaciers and ascending snowy ridgelines can provide you with the most breathtaking views and memorable experiences of your life. In addition to its surrealness, traveling on snow allows you to bypass the pains of navigating through boulder fields and chossy slopes. However, glacier travel and mountaineering do have their dangers and drawbacks, especially when it comes to crevasses. It’s essential to have knowledge, training, and the right gear to progress in these types of environments.

May 16 2018

Mountaineering

Disclaimer: The information contained in this article is non-exhaustive. Proper training and education are essential. In the mountains, the environment you are traveling in is inherently dangerous: You are responsible for your own actions, decisions, and safety.

 

Glacier travel

Roping up to travel across a glacier seems simple enough, but these tech tips will show you a few options for different conditions and scenarios. 

Roping up as a team of two

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Three ways to tie in

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Crevasse rescue

Falling into a crevasse is one of the major risks when traveling on a glacier. Two essential precautions for this type of risk factor is carrying rescue equipment and knowing the proper techniques to rescue your partner or yourself.

 

Transferring the victim's weight to an anchor

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Accessing the edge of the crevasse to evaluate the situation

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Haul systems for crevasse rescue

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Progression

The key to moving on steep slopes and snowy ridgelines is efficiency. Learning and using the right techniques will make a difference in gaining the summit or returning to basecamp before nightfall or bad weather hits. 

 

Crossing a bergschrund

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Simul-climbing

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Quick rappel on a ridge

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