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What's in Gord McArthur's Pack?

Petzl Team member Gord McArthur is a die-hard ice and mixed climber and a member of the Canadian National Ice Climbing Team. Gord represented Canada at the ice climbing "cultural demonstration" event at the Sochi Winter Olympics. He currently lives,in Cranbrook, British Columbia, with his wife and kids. When he's not training, he runs a graphic design business. Here, he gives us a peek inside his winter pack…

October 27 2014

Ice climbing

What's in ice climber Gord McArthur's pack? Gear photo by Gord McArthur.

When I’m heading out climbing, I make sure I have all the essentials (plus a few extras), so that I’m fully prepared for the day ahead.  When it comes to winter climbing, there’s a few more details to keep in mind as far as “things needed”, thus my pack gets pretty full. I try not to overdo it with what I’m bringing, but in the winter you gotta be equipped so you can focus on the task at hand. This is what my pack for mixed climbing typically looks like if you were to dump it all out:

  1. Golf gloves: For holding onto ice tools—they’re the grippiest thing out there and offer maximum dexterity. Yup, my hands typically freeze when I wear them, but for the performance I get, it’s worth it.
  2. NOMIC ice tools: these things complete me. Nothing happens without them. I take huge pride in making sure they’re tuned to perfection, and ready to go at all times.
  3. SAMA harness: this is among the most comfortable harnesses I’ve ever worn. Plus, it’s red, so that just means I’m gonna be faster!
  4. ARIAL 9.5 rope: I’m not into soloing, so this is a necessity. I like thinner ropes, especially on long pitches, whether vert or horizontal, because it’s just less weight to pull.
  5. Scarpa Phantom Ice: This “comp boot” is super light, agile, and extremely precise with with every foot placement. Whether for actual competitions or mixed climbing in the mountains, I love this style of boot—it allows for more precise foot placements and better movement overall.
  6. SPIRIT EXPRESS quickdraws: I always bring a full set (16) of quickdraws, so I know I’ll have enough to equip the whole “rig.” The SPIRIT draws are light, fast, and super durable.
  7. LASER SPEED LIGHT ice screws: Petzl’s new ice screws are groundbreakingly amazing. These things bite into ice so fast and with utter ease. No thought—just turn and go.
  8. Scarpa Phantom Guide boots: You gotta have a comfortable, warm, and fast boot for approaches or for going up. The Phantom Guide is just that. I can approach, climb, rest, and repeat in these things. They’re my go-to boots for winter activity.
  9. SIROCCO helmet:  I don’t leave home without it… And if I do, I go back home and get it. The SIROCCO is particularly rad because it’s so light.  You don’t want to be fighting the “head bob” when you’re upside down. When I put the SIROCCO on, I don’t even notice it’s there.
  10. Deuter Guide 35 pack: This pack is simple, fits me perfectly, takes a beating, and it holds everything I need.
  11. Water: Stay hydrated. I have a metal bottle, which generally causes the water to freeze faster…hmmm…maybe I should use a plastic bottle!  
  12. Picks: I use special picks for my ice tools. They’re made from Russian tank metal. Enough said.
  13. D-LYNX crampon front points: Petzl’s D-LYNX front points are wickedly light, and awesome for mixed climbing. They’re removable, which is a great feature for tuning and easy replacement.
  14. GRIGRI 2 braking assisted belay device: The GRIGRI 2 is the only way to go for sport or mixed belaying. Period.
  15. REVERSO 4 belay device: When I multi-pitching with double ropes or climbing with icy ropes, I opt for a REVERSO.
  16. Anchor rig: I always bring some sort of anchor set up for bailing off a route, if needed.
  17. Jetboil stove: When I’m out climbing, I sometimes like to eat something other than bars or a half-frozen sandwich. That’s why I bring along my Jetboil stove to make something a little more “gourmet” (read: noodles or ravioli).
  18. OR Neoplume down pants: They matter to me as much as my helmet does. If I forgot them, I go home and get them.
  19. OR Floodlight down jacket: Same deal as with the down pants. I use the Floodlight because it’s warm (800 fill) and waterproof—perfect combo for winter activity.
  20. OR Alti Mitt gloves: can’t go wrong. My fingers get cold easily, but not in these puppies.
  21. Petzl toque: Gotta keep my bald head warm. 
  22. TIKKA RXP headlamp: Days are short in the winter, so I always bring a headlamp—in this case, the TIKKA RXP with Reactive Lighting that adjusts automatically—for those times when my objective keeps me out after dark.
  23. Hand and foot warmers: When it gets really cold out, I use these to take the edge off.
  24. Red Bull energy drink: another item I never leave home without. Have you ever tried to fly without wings? Never a good ending. 
  25. Clif Bar energy bars: In the winter time, you expend a lot more energy trying to maintain core temperature, thus, you need to replenish fuel reserves more often. Clif Bars help with that big time.
  26. Julbo Stunts sunglasses: Yes, the sun sometimes shines in the winter. I always bring my sunnies with me, just in case. If you’re in an area where there’s a lot of snow, the reflection can be a killer. Protect your eyes!
  27. Steel file: Any hardware store carries them. I get the high-quality ones, as the Russian tank metal I’m sharpening chews up cheap files. In general, I like to keep my front points and picks tuned perfectly. I take great pride in this kinda thing.  Having “dialed in” gear, allows for more precise placements, giving more trust in the movement.
  28. Huh, weird: I guess I skipped No. 28.  Moving on…
  29. Toilet paper: no explanation needed.

 

 

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