Choice of lanyard end carabiner for a rock climbing or via ferrata lanyard - Petzl USA
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Choice of lanyard end carabiner for a rock climbing or via ferrata lanyard

Warnings

  • Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
  • It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
  • Mastering these techniques requires training.
  • Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.
Choice of lanyard end carabiner for a rock climbing or via ferrata lanyard

Key issues and risks

Fast operation is an advantage when changing anchors.

For via ferrata lanyards, the frequent clipping increases the risk of error and ergonomics is especially important.

The carabiner must be easily attachable to anchors of various dimensions.

The most important risks to consider

The most important risks to consider

Recommendation on carabiner and accessories

Recommendation on carabiner and accessories

Recommendation on carabiner and accessories

Via ferrata

Recommendation on carabiner and accessories


+ Wide opening that is suitable for cable, fast attachment for frequent operation.

Recommendation on carabiner and accessories


+ Double action locking system that is ergonomic and secure.



Information

Why this choice?

  • The TWIST-LOCK system provides a good balance between speed of operation and security.
  • The SCREW-LOCK system offers high reliability for for harsh environments (mud, sand, ice...).

    Beware of the risk of forgetting to lock the sleeve at each manipulation. The unscrewing direction is always down, so the sleeve can become unscrewed in case of prolonged use on the same anchorage
  • The WIRE-LOCK system offers ideal ergonomics. It is used specifically for via ferrata, on Y-lanyards, to always have both arms connected to the anchor.

Positioning system

  • The carabiner positioning system helps correctly position the carabiner, but also facilitates clipping as it rigidifies the lanyard/carabiner assembly.

Precautions for use

Precautions for use
  • When clipping, check that the carabiner is correctly positioned in the anchor, and that the sleeve is completely locked.
  • Plan your movements during use to anticipate the movement of the carabiners and the risks of poor positioning.
  • Make sure to have another lanyard clipped in, or another belay system, before moving your lanyard from one anchor to another.