Techniques for equipping a pitch - Petzl Norway
Search

Techniques for equipping a pitch

Warnings

  • Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information.
  • Mastering these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
  • We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. There may be others that we do not describe here.

The first member to descend installs the ropes that serve to belay the team and allow them to move efficiently. They must choose the appropriate configurations of equipment for ascent and descent and maximize the team's safety. During these manipulations, the desire for speed should not be at the expense of the leader's own safety.

1. Installing a fixed traverse line

The rest of the team can walk while tethered into the fixed line. The leader always stays in tension on their STOP and never releases the brake side of the rope.

Installing a fixed traverse line

2. Installing a fixed traverse line for progression

The rest of the team will use the taut fixed line for aid and the closely spaced anchors for climbing. The butterfly knot adjusts easily for tensioning the rope.

Installing a fixed traverse line for progression

3. Installing the rope at a pitch head

A double anchor must be used at pitch heads. A Y-knot distributes the load on the anchors and allows the direction of the rope to be more easily chosen.

Installing the rope at a pitch head and detail of the Y-knot

4. Creating a rebelay

Breaking up rope lengths reduces elasticity and the risk of abrasion and allows several members of a team to progress simultaneously, with one user maximum per section.

Creating a rebelay and knot detail