Universal technique for correct use of a belay device.
All Petzl belay devices, and those of many other brands, are designed to be used with the same hand placements on the rope and the same basic belay technique.
- Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
- It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
- Mastering these techniques requires training.
- Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.
This hand position is valid regardless of the device used: tube, GRIGRI, REVERSO...
Your hand must never let go of the brake-side rope.
Taking up slack
To take up slack, pull the climber-side rope and pull the brake-side rope through the device. Never let go of the brake-side rope
To give slack, your brake-side hand pushes the rope towards the device, creating slack; your other hand pulls the rope through the device. To repeat this movement, slide your brake-side hand along the rope, without ever letting it go.
Examples of especially dangerous behavior that must be strictly avoided.
- Good practices for belaying a lead climber
- Universal technique for correct use of a belay device.
- Spotting and belaying at the start of the route
- Belaying a leader climber: vigilance, anticipation and mobility
- Stopping a climbing fall
- Communication when climbing
- Top-rope belaying with the GRIGRI anchored to the ground.
- Belaying with the GRIGRI
- Video: Belaying with a GRIGRI
- VIDEO - Specific left-handed technique
- Belaying with the REVERSO
- Video - The Worst Belayer in the World
- Carabiner basics
- Choice of carabiner for attaching a GRIGRI to the harness
- Choice of carabiners for attaching a VERSO or REVERSO to the harness
- Choice of lanyard end carabiner for a rock climbing or via ferrata lanyard
- Choice of carabiners for attaching the rope to the anchor
- Examples of dangerous carabiner loading.
- Attaching a rope to the harness
- To read for self-belaying
- General principles for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
- Setting up a self-belay system on two ropes with two ascenders
- Installation on one single rope with two ascenders
- Appendix 1: Petzl dœs not recommend using only one ascender for self-belaying.
- Appendix 2: Detail of installation on two ropes with two ascenders
- Appendix 3: Detail of installation on one rope with two ascenders
- Appendix 4: Precautions and introduction to risk analysis
- Appendix 5: Analysis of solutions observed in the field - Use of a single ascender with knots in the rope.
- Appendix 6: Analysis of solutions observed in the field. Use of one ascender and clipping into knots on a second rope