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What gear should you pack for lightweight summer mountaineering?

The latest developments in gear have made it possible to carry a much lighter pack for mountaineering or alpine climbing adventures. This weight reduction means moving faster and being less exposed to the objective hazards inherent to the mountains. At the beginning of the summer, we met with Luka Lindic, professional climber and Team Petzl member, to learn more about how he lightens his pack when heading into high alpine terrain.

July 14 2017

Mountaineering

© Luka Lindic

 

"During the summer, when I'm in lightweight-mountaineering mode, I take: 

  1. A dry-treated 50m half rope: perfect for most classic routes. It is relatively lightweight and has a large enough diameter for me to feel safe and secure on technical terrain.
  2. A Dyneema® tag line for rappels.
  3. Two GULLY ice axes: they offer an incredible weight-to-performance ratio.
  4. ANGE FINESSE quickdraws. How many I take depends on the route.
  5. LASER SPEED LIGHT ice screws: ultra-lightweight for my summer adventures in the Alps. In general, one ice screw per person is enough for safe glacier travel.
  6. IRVIS HYBRID crampons: the perfect compromise. These lightweight crampons perform well on any classic route.
  7. One ATTACHE locking carabiner, two SPIRIT locking carabiners, and a REVERSO.
  8. Two PUR'ANNEAU 60cm slings with two ANGE S carabiners each.
  9. Two PUR'ANNEAU 120cm slings with two ANGE L carabiners each.
  10. A few stoppers.
  11. Two pitons.
  12. A few medium-sized cams.
  13. An ALTITUDE harness.
  14. A SIROCCO helmet.
  15. A lightweight waterproof jacket for full protection against wind and rain.
  16. A lightweight insulated jacket to stay warm when resting or on windy summits.
  17. A small first-aid kit. I am proud of the fact that I have never needed to use it during my career, and hopefully I never will.
  18. A pair of sunglasses.
  19. A headband.
  20. A pair of gloves warm enough to summit Mont Blanc yet dexterous enough to climb well.
  21. A SPATHA knife.
  22. An ACTIK headlamp.
  23. For food: dried fruit is enough for an all-day outing.
  24. For hydration: 1 liter of water.

 

© Rocker Wang

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