La cascade de glace vue par Matthias Scherer - Instagram Takeover
Régulièrement, les athlètes du team Petzl prennent le contrôle de notre compte Instagram. Pendant une semaine, ils nous transportent dans leur monde, nous font vivre leurs aventures et nous transmettent leurs valeurs. Début janvier 2017, Matthias Scherer, un glaciériste qui compte déjà plus de 1000 cascades de glace à son actif, nous a conté quelques-unes de ses sorties. Sortez vos doudounes et découvrez les sept posts de ce passionné. #MatthiasTakeover
16 Janvier 2017
Escalade sur glace
"De quelle valeur sont les convictions qui n'apportent pas de souffrance ?" Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
"Of what worth are convictions that bring not suffering?" Antoine de Saint-Exupery My Name is @MatthiasScherer and I've been climbing frozen water since 1992. In 2001, I teamed up with the twins, Tanja and Heike Schmitt, together we have spent all our free time between November and April tilting at frozen windmills around the globe. #Iceclimbing has become our way of life... I take over Petzl's Instagram until friday. Follow my adventures. #Matthiastakeover #accesstheinaccessible
"Il n'y a que deux cotations : je peux ou je ne peux pas"
#Iceclimbing is all about learning to read the ice and terrain. I've climbed more than 1,000 ice falls in my life but I am still learning new things and I am always prepared for a new surprise. This post shows the alternative climb to a project in Utladalen, #Norway. The column looked massive from below but at the end it was the typical Norwegian style of climbing through wild structures. Due to the proximity of the sea and frequent temperature swings, mighty ice structures can form very quickly in Norway. The ice is then very chandeliered with lots of air inside and hardly any protection for #icescrews. Normal WI grades have only a limited meaning on these ephemeral climbs. For me this means that there are only two grades: I can OR I cannot. Photo: @tanjaschmitt #MatthiasTakeover #AccessTheInaccessible
On this day in the Kananaskis Country of Canada we encountered harsh alpine conditions from the beginning. While @tanjaschmitt was leading the direct start of the route 'VSOP' the spindrift turned into avalanches, we could not finish the route. The storm became even worse during the day and we accepted that the only solution was to retreat. Despite all of our experience and skills, this is sometimes the only option. Photo: @matthiasscherer #AccessTheInaccessible #MatthiasTakeover
There are climbs that really merit the term “milestone” in #iceclimbing history. One of those lines is 'Nemesis' on the Stanley Headwall in BC, #Canada. We've climbed the line on all our early season Rockies trips, and been lucky enough to witness the magic of it’s rebirth each season. The photo is of @heikemschmitt from this season’s ascent of the line in November. Being the first of the season to climb a line like this is a always a privilege. Slight changes year by year make it a voyage into a world of new surprises. Photo @matthiasscherer #matthiastakeover #accesstheinaccessible
Gudvangen : le Yosemite de la cascade de glace
There are places that carve themselves so deeply into you that you never forget them. The #Gudvangen valley in Norway could be considered the Yosemite of #iceclimbing. Black walls of rock rising up for 1000 meters with gleaming ice lines running down them. In February 2013, @tanjaschmitt and I climbed 'Kjerrskredkvelven' at roughly 1000m long this is one of the longest and hardest ice climbs in the world. Last season in January we returned to the Gudavangen valley with @heikemschmitt and were able to use a very short window to climb the outstanding line 'Svartberg Fall.' The photo shows Tanja and Heike Schmitt approaching Svartberg Fall, the heart of this climb was a 150m long pillar that had formed huge roofs, the like of which we’ve never encountered on any other climb. #accesstheinaccessible #matthiastakeover
Quand la glace défie la gravité…
Expect to be surprised. The heart of the 'Svartberg Fall' in Gudavangen, where massive roofs form despite the laws of gravity. They were jutting out over eight meters from the wall and the climbing was the most surreal and technical climbing I have ever done in my #iceclimbing career. The #commitment on this line was extreme and inspired us through the rest of the climb. #accesstheinaccessible #MatthiasTakeover This picture by @tanjaschmitt shows @matthiasscherer searching his way through the upper roof.
Plaisir de vivre le moment, nécessité de rester en vie
Facing the unknown will be always the core of #iceclimbing - the conflict lays between the desire to live in the moment and the urge to stay sane in the heart of the extreme. No other climb has exemplified this as much as Svartberg Fall. Our film 'Anathema - blessed and cursed' tells the story of this ascent and the decisions and consequences climbers confront on the surreal sculptures of ephemeral ice. #MatthiasTakeover #accesstheinaccessible