Sasha DiGiulian: Sending an 8c Big Wall With an All-Female Team

Creating an exclusively female team to tackle one of the most demanding multi-pitch routes in the world was an idea that had been floating around in Sasha DiGiulian's head for a while. In September 2022, this dream finally came true when Matilda Soderlund and Brette Harrington roped up with Sasha. Together, they achieved an incredible free ascent of Rayu, 8c, in the Picos de Europa (Spain).

Rayu — which means ‘lightning’ in Asturian — is a 610-meter (2,000-foot) 8c/5.14b route in Spain’s Cordillera Cantábrica region of Picos de Europa. The route comprises of 16 pitches, primarily 5.12 (7a+) climbing and up to 5.14b (8c). Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, and Kico Cerdá established the route over five weeks in 2020. The hardest big wall accomplished by a woman to date is 5.14b (8c). This was an accolade that I was proud to have achieved in The Dolomites in 2013 and in Madagascar in 2017. And, if we were to be successful, we would mark history with the hardest big wall climb achieved by a team of women.

Ambitious Project, Powerhouse Team

I started putting together the expedition team in October of 2021. I knew that I wanted to build an all female team because going for big audacious goals with other women inspires me. I find that climbing with other women is comforting, fun, and a collaborative experience. When I see a woman do something that is physically demanding, I feel inspired. It drives me to push myself.

What I learned from this trip is that an expedition is well beyond the rock climb itself. As a team, we pushed each other and had times of difficult discussions, yet we maintained our direction through being openly communicative of our feelings. We would not have been able to achieve this feat without our entire team; Ryan Sheridan, Priscilla Mewborne, Chris Alstrin, Michael Potter, and Fran Gonzalez.

Best Friends Make the Best Climbing Partners

I’ve known Matilda for over ten years. Since we were both born in 1992, we grew up competing against each other and formed a friendship when we got to see each other annually at the Junior World Championships. When we were 16, we began traveling together to the adult World Cups. At the time, it was rare that either the US or Sweden team had much of a presence, so we coined ourselves “Team Amereden.” The night before a World Cup began, we would go to the technical meetings with other coaches from countries with bigger teams, like Austria and France. After competitions, we would go to nearby sport climbing areas and climb together on rock. Over the last 8 years, we both grew out of the competition space and began focusing on outdoor climbing. In 2021, Matilda went on her first big wall climbing trip in Switzerland.

In the fall of 2021, having seen this, I sent her a message on Instagram about doing an expedition together in 2022. Thoughout this trip, we joked that she was in before she even knew what I was suggesting. I didn’t know it, but it was her first time camping. It was so much fun going after this route together with Brette Harrington, and creating so many new memories in this incredible place!

Don't Let Go

I knew what falling was like – but I couldn’t worry about that. I just needed to try. I climbed through the first crux – I had that pretty wired – then I got to the rest before the 2nd. I noticed all the tape on my fingers was getting a little in the way of my friction, but it was protecting my raw wounds from the bite of the rock crystals, cutting straight down into them. I climbed through the 2nd crux and felt good moving through — I knew what to do. Then, the rest before the 3rd crux, which essentially leads right into the 4th and final section of the route to the anchor. I shook my hands out from a resting position and I could feel the blood gushing from my finger pads below the slipping tape. I could hear Matilda and Brette cheering from the belay below. I felt invigorated by their energy. I bit all of my tape off of my fingers — and I put my left finger into the tiny hole, squishing it deep into the pocket for the most possible leverage. Then, I reached out to my small crystal, walked my foot up high and left into a smear, and jumped. I latched into the hold, clenched my abdominal muscles – and hiked my right foot up. I screamed – to embrace the throbbing pain beneath my fingertips and to tell my muscles to keep going. I got through to the next bolt, the final sequences were in front of me. As I looked out at the tiny crystals, I thought; ‘Don’t let go now! Find a way.