Mina Markovič sends "La Fabela Pa La Enmienda," 9a
After years of success competing, Mina Markovic decided that it was time to turn her efforts towards taking on climbing challenges outdoors on real rock. Since last year, Petzl has been proud to support Mina in her climbing endeavors, and she recently crushed a 9a in Santa Linya, Spain!
January 4 2016
My impression after sending the route... "ummm, almost too easy, I want to climb another one" :)
I started by climbing La Fabelita, 8c, which shares the same start and first crux. When I did the 'easier' version I decided to check out the moves on the 'harder' one. After the 8c crux, you continue to the left and immediately start climbing the next pretty long 8c+ crux (La Fabelita). This crux is powerful, technical, and overhanging, climbing a series of pockets and slopers; a nice and enjoyable section of the route. I figured out a sequence that really played to my strengths, and while physically harder, it is also a bit more controlled than the usual beta. Once through this crux, there was no way I was going to stop before reaching the top of the cave. There remained one last steep section with reachy moves, often considered sustained and pumpy, but for me it was just really fun climbing!
The physically most difficult section for me was the lower power-endurance sequence. It was also a mental game to stay focused all the way to the top.
I chose this particular line because it climbs to the top of the cave. In Santa Linya my goal was to climb routes to the highest point possible, so picking a route that leads to the top of the cave was a no-brainer.
It took me 3 or 4 days to work the route. I made roughly 7 attempts overall, including the time I spent climbing La Fabelita, 8c, and a few slips at the start of the route due to the cold and humidity. On the day of the send, I sent the route on the 3rd go. This was really difficult physically speaking, since I fell twice towards the end of the last crux after dispatching with most of the hard moves.
I really like route, the line, the crux sections, and the length. I am looking forward to doing more routes just like this one! :)