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How to belay from above

The REVERSO can be set up as an assisted braking device when belaying from above on multi-pitch climbs. Belaying a partner in REVERSO Mode takes the weight off of the belayer’s body and makes it easy to belay two climbers simultaneously. The following information will help explain how to configure and use your belay device in REVERSO Mode.

June 29 2018

Multi-pitch climbing

 

Disclaimer

  • Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques
  • It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
  • Mastering these techniques requires training
  • Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own

Understanding the parts of the REVERSO

  • Attachment point - The connection point for attaching the REVERSO directly to the anchor for use in REVERSO Mode
  • Rope slots - The friction channels that the rope passes through
  • Nylon coated steel cable - A non-load-bearing retainer that keeps the device in its proper configuration
  • Braking grooves - V-slot braking channels for arresting a fall or controlling the descent
  • Release hole - A connection point for inserting the nose of a carabiner to lower a climber
  • Aluminum alloy frame - An ultra-light and durable design that is minimalist and versatile


Connecting the REVERSO to an equalized anchor

  1. Connect a locking carabiner to the belay station
  2. Connect the attachment point of the REVERSO to the locking carabiner
  3. Lock the carabiner


Installing the rope(s)

  1. Push a bite of rope (or two bites of rope) through the rope slots
  2. Make sure the climber’s end is positioned on top
  3. Place a locking carabiner through the Nylon-coated steel cable and the bite(s) of rope
  4. Lock and rotate the carabiner so that the spine is in contact with both the rope(s) and REVERSO
  5. Perform a function check by pulling downward on the climber’s end of the rope to ensure that the rope does not slide through


Belaying one or two climbers

  1. Always maintain control of the brake side of the rope
  2. Use both hands to slide the rope through the system
  3. Constantly take up slack to limit the effects of a fall
  4. The two strands of rope (climber side and brake side) must stay aligned with the braking grooves and be pulled pulled downward
  5. The assisted braking function of REVERSO Mode will help the belayer arrest a fall


Releasing the system to give slack or lower a climber

  1. Maintain a firm grip on the brake side of the rope
  2. Insert the nose of a small carabiner into the release hole
  3. Gradually pull the carabiner upward with the other hand while feathering your grip on the brake strand to control the descent
  4. To stop the descent, grip the brake side of the rope tightly and release the carabiner
  5. Never use a different release method (ex: using a cord or a sling)


Precautions

  1. Use a proper tie-off method if you have to let go of the system (Figure 1)
  2. Monitor the position of your ropes at all times as it is possible for thin ropes to cross and disable the self-braking function (Figure 2)
  3. When belaying two climbers: If one climber is hanging on their rope, the Reverso is unable to move freely and reorient itself in the direction of pull from the other climber, disabling the assisted braking function on their rope--braking is provided by gripping the brake-side of the rope (Figure 3)

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