How to effectively communicate on multi-pitch climbs

Our experience demonstrates that we often have trouble communicating between partners when climbing a multi-pitch route, especially during transitions. There is also the situation when several other rope teams are climbing in the same area or even on the same route. This potentially creates confusion between rope teams. High-mountain guide, Bernard Gravier, shares with as his non-verbal communication techniques that allow climbers to clearly and effectively communicate from one anchor to another.

Using non-verbal language

This simple and efficient technique requires the second to pay careful attention, since the rope will be used as the means of communication between both climbers.

Non-verbal language guidelines at an anchor

As the leader, after setting the anchor, you need to pull up the rope until taut, and then tug hard 3 times. Wait approximately 5 seconds, and give the rope another 3 hard tugs.

"Off belay, I am ready to pull up the rope." 

Rope is tensioned – 3 tugs – 5 second wait – 3 tugs

Following these 6 tugs, the second will understand that they can remove their belay device.

When the second has freed up the rope, as the leader, now pull up the rest of the rope and set up you belay system. Give the rope another 3 hard tugs to let your second know that they can start climbing.

"On belay"

3 tugs

The second can signal that they have started to climb by giving 3 hard tugs on the rope. If you are climbing as a party of 3, both seconds can signal their start by tugging hard 3 times on the rope.

"Ok, climbing..."

3 tugs

The moral of the story… 

"Language is often a source of misunderstanding. In this case, less is more. You are better off tugging hard on the rope than wearing out your vocal chords."

- - Bernard Gravier - Entre Ciel et Pierres