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What's in Urko Carmona's pack?

Athlete Urko Carmona joined Team Petzl in 2015. This hardcore climber enjoys pulling on plastic as much as rock. He has won the “Paraclimbing” World Cup three times and has sent sport routes as hard as 8a+; more than impressive considering that he has only one leg… “It’s the type of obstacle that forces you to push beyond your limits and to learn.”

March 17 2016

Rock climbing

Qu'est-ce qu'il y a dans le sac d'Urko Carmona ?

"Pack weight is really important to me, since the approach hikes can really wear me out. Until recently, it just wasn’t possible for me to carry all of the gear myself. When I was 15 I used money from my first job (15.000 pesetas) to buy climbing gear. Now, thanks to equipment being so much lighter than before, I can carry everything in my backpack. Here is a list of what gear I bring to go cragging…"

  1. An 80m VOLTA 9.2mm rope: a lightweight, durable rope that has a great feel, especially when climbing. I like this rope to work and send my hardest projects.
  2. A Montura rope bag: a large, lightweight, and simple tarp, ideal for carrying and taking care of your rope.
  3. A Boreal SIESTA 45L backpack: this backpack is comfortable and voluminous, designed with the ideal dimensions to fit perfectly in the trunk of my Kangoo. In addition, it has a removable foam back panel that serves as a pad for resting at the base of the crag between burns.
  4. A Montura beanie: a mixed wool and fleece beanie that is very, very warm in the winter.
  5. Montura gloves: made with reinforced leather to belay in cold weather.
  6. A Montura SKISKY parka: lightweight and comfortable, with the unique Primaloft microclimate system that keeps you warm even when wet.
  7. A Montura FREE EVO Jacket: made with stretchy fabric that allows you to climb in cold weather. I love the large chest pocket for easy access to the topo of the route.
  8. A Montura THERMIC MALLA base layer: a second ski that takes up no room, is extremely lightweight, and keeps you from turning into a popsicle.
  9. CHC chalk: when it comes to chalk I have pretty high standards, and CHC chalk strikes the perfect balance between sweat absorption and friction, offering the best feel on the most challenging holds.
  10. A SAKA chalk bag: so light that I don’t recommended using it on windy days ;)
  11. A Petzl SITTA harness: this extra lightweight harness is very comfortable and offers great freedom of movement. I always feel at ease in this harness, and it takes up very little space.
  12. BOREAL climbing shoes: since I only have one leg, I allow myself the luxury of carrying 2 or 3 different shoes; one comfortable shoe for warming up and more precise shoes for harder routes. The SATORI works well, and ZENITH rubber provides great friction.
  13. A TIKKA RXP headlamp: I love this headlamp for several reasons… you can recharge via USB port and it has a really long burn time. Even more, it is an intelligent lamp, varying lighting power based on the amount of natural light.
  14. SPIRIT EXPRESS quickdraws: I like to take between 17 and 20 quickdraws. Lightweight and easy to clip, the SPIRIT EXPRESS is my favorite quickdraw.
  15. A knee pad: I wear a neoprene knee pad for knee bars and to protect my only knee from bumps and scrapes.
  16. A GRIGRI 2: of course I never climb anywhere without my GRIGRI, the most comfortable and safe belay device ever invented. I use a FREINO carabiner with a friction spur: at first it was a little weird using the friction spur to lower someone, but it is clearly an additional plus when lowering some of my much heavier friends.
  17. ILDOMANI PUC Series board: an artisanal wood campus bar for areas not well suited for warming up or training.
  18. Food: I don’t take much, usually a mix of dried fruit and nuts; just enough to snack during a full day of climbing.
  19. A plastic bag: I always take a bag with me for my garbage and any other litter I find in the area. I like to keep the mountains clean.
  20. Brushes: if possible I bring two brushes, one for the rock and the other one for my teeth. You should always keep your routes just as clean as your teeth.
  21. A quick link: to always be prepared for an unexpected situation when climbing.
  22. A removable bolt hanger: a small good luck charm for my hardest sends.
  23. A lighter: a standard part of my survival kit.
  24. A knife: PALLARES is one of my favorite brands, their knives are easy to sharpen and so simple to use; there is no locking feature (only for expert hands).
  25. Nail clippers: an essential tool for those like me who don’t look in the mirror.
  26. Water: staying well hydrated is important so I always carry plenty of water. In winter I take a smaller water bottle and a thermos of hot herbal tea.
  27. Athletic tape: a standard part of my kit when I’m really focused and working on a specific project. It protects my fingers.
  28. Crutches: my best friends, although not always in my pack unless I’m on a long route, in which case I carry them with me.

Urko Carmona

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