Showcasing the extensive archives of Walter Bonatti, States of Grace, an exhibit at the Turin National Museum of Mountains, pays homage to the magic of the Mont Blanc massif and the grandeur of the red granite walls on the east face of Grand Capucin. Pages in the history of climbing are etched in its stone — a symphony of cracks, dihedrals, roofs, and slabs, transporting climbers into a world that transcends the vertical. Still today, these walls remain an inspiration and a daunting challenge for many climbers.
On this episode of the Petzl Legend Tour Italia, we travel back in time with Petzl athlete and mountain guide Federica Mingolla, who keeps the dream of these walls alive and continues to inspire us. We'll reach the summit of Grand Capucin via the route opened by Walter Bonatti and Luciano Ghigo between July 21st and 23rd, 1951.
A striking photograph shows Walter Bonatti and Luciano Ghigo preparing their rudimentary gear for an attempt to climb Grand Capucin. In 1951, they made their ascent, finally solving the puzzle that is the east face of this red granite monolith. Gian Piero Motti described it as "one of the most daring and elegant rock faces in the alpine range.”
The Bonatti-Ghigo route is an itinerary that speaks volumes to this day. It remains a testament to the vision and skill of the team that reached its summit. In the 1950s, this wall was deemed insurmountable, an impossible challenge. Bonatti completed the climb in four days, with three bivys, and a rack of aid climbing gear. At the time, aid climbing techniques had only been tested on the limestone of the eastern Alps, but never before on granite.
Through Federica's ascent, you'll experience the atmosphere of Mont Blanc. At the same time, as if watching a black and white film, you'll see Walter and Luciano emerging onto the terrace of the first bivy, preparing to spend the night with a very slim arsenal of equipment. Photographs, journal entries, personally-penned trip reports, old pitons, wooden wedges, and the voice of Bonatti himself recounting his ascents — all of this precious material has traversed decades to find a new home in the Turin National Museum of Mountains, thanks to the foresight and passion of those who run it.
Memory has been our guide, evoking an indescribable emotion. It has led us to reflect on the power of passion, the driving force behind those who have made history in the mountains. When we understand what they accomplished without the modern tools and equipment we have today, it’s clear that Walter Bonatti and Luciano Ghigo performed nothing short of miracles on Grand Capucin.
Dino Buzzati wrote that if Bonatti had lived in the time of Homer, his exploits would have been recounted in an epic poem. The grandeur of this ascent, like that of many others he achieved, is rooted in the purity of his passion for the mountains. His insatiable desire to learn and explore remains a poignant example today. Walter Bonatti reminds us that passion is life’s driving force. As we follow in his footsteps on the walls of Grand Capucin, we let ourselves be transported by his words, and perhaps catch a glimpse of Mont Blanc through his eyes.
The video, State of Grace, will be available on the @Petzl Sport YouTube channel on Monday, May 13th.
Article written by Laura Giunta for Petzl Distribution
