“You have to climb there!” by Dave Graham

Thanks to hard working route developers, generous landowners, and the Access Fund, we can enjoy unique climbing experiences across North America. With the summer crowds lining up to take turns at all the destination crags, consider taking the road less traveled and explore some forgotten or new areas. Petzl Team member, Dave Graham is no stranger to obscure climbing areas that deliver quality stone and limited crowds. Check out his list of great North American crags:

Acephale - Canmore, CA

“When it’s time to take a road trip and you feel like your favorite destinations will all be sweltering hot, cruise on up to the Bow Valley in Canada. From Calgary, there are a number of climbing areas to choose from as you move towards Canmore. Acephale is a particularly charming little crag hidden in a deep green forest. if you are into blue limestone, this is your destination. The climbing style is super bouldery; slick feet, technical slabs, and powerful bulges dominate the terrain. However, the routes appear quite diverse from each other as the walls morph into different shapes and sizes along the way. Reminiscent of the alpine limestone of Switzerland, and with a high concentration of high-end sport routes, this place is a refreshing change from many of the other cliffs in North America.”

Dave’s suggested testpiece route
Bunda Ja Fora, 14d

Dave’s suggested classic route
Altius, 12c

Shagg Crag - West Paris, ME

“Known as North America’s miniature Flatanger, the Shagg Crag is a legendary climbing area hidden in the hills of southwestern Maine. A large swell of perfectly sculpted Gneiss chills above a pond, nearly hidden by the trees, hosting a plethora of amazing routes. I have a particular affinity for this cliff as it was the first climbing area I ever visited and in all my travels I still haven’t seen anything that compares to its quaintness and ambiance. The incredible rock quality and consistent overhang gives this crag a particular vibe. The technical, yet powerful climbing takes you through features that always appear to better than they really are, yet riddled with hidden crimpers and small pockets. Shagg is a timeless climbing area; almost like a time capsule. There may not be that many routes to choose from, but each one is unique and somehow retains its own history.”

Dave’s suggested testpiece route
Agro Shagg, 5.13d

Dave’s suggested classic route
Shagg It, 5.12d
The Great Escape, 5.10c

Rifle Mountain Park - Rifle, CO

“Rifle is undoubtedly one our most treasured sport climbing areas in North America, however, it has a notoriously negative reputation. Debatably, this canyon has the most concentrated amount of hard routes in the continent, but probably receives the least amount of compliments out of any crag in the world. Baffling to those who love and appreciate cryptic climbing on geometrically shaped limestone, Rifle is heralded as a crowded choss pile--a statement I find rather laughable. With absolutely zero hiking required, and hundreds of classic routes, all you need to do is find somewhere to start and then choose your own adventure. Beta in Rifle is nearly mythical and the solution is merely a rumor. Besides squeezing giants cubes and spinning around with double knee pads, it’s possible to hack a method which reduces your project’s grade by a few letter grades.”

Dave’s suggested testpiece route
Shadowboxing, 14d
Tomfoolery, 14b

Dave’s suggested classic route
Defenseless Betty, 12a
Rumor Has it, 11c

Clear Creek Canyon - Denver, CO

“Clear Creek Canyon, the gateway to rock climbing and many other canyon-like sports, lurks just outside the suburbs of Denver and has an extremely varied set of terrain. Small crags litter the winding granite walls, all with their own allure and style. The common tyrolean crossing is always fun and keeps you on your toes, but the routes and boulders are not so easy to accomplish. The style of climbing is very bouldery with terrible feet that force you to focus on whatever features you have to work with. The metamorphic granite has a twisting and turning characteristic to it, which always leaves one feeling a little out of balance. From short bouldery roof climbs to long technical faces, this little universe of climbing never ends. There is still a ton of potential for new climbing of all shapes and sizes, especially if anyone is interested in a nice hike.”

Dave’s suggested testpiece route
Mission Impossible, 14c

Dave’s suggested classic route
Wet Dream, 12a