Jon Cardwell — Rediscovering New Mexico Climbing

Jon Cardwell has traveled all over the world in search of perfect lines, impeccable rock, and the next hardest thing. Last year, he returned to his home state of New Mexico to put down roots and explore some of the areas that shaped him as a climber. Enjoy.

Maybe I'll bring back the hair?

When I was younger, my desire to explore New Mexico climbing kept me awake most nights. I’d lie there, waiting for the weekend, so I could steal away to the crag. I devoured every bit of guidebook history I could — studying hand-drawn topos full of dotted lines and little X’s that marked the bolts. My mind raced, and my expectations grew. 

I never really chose where I went — rather — I was at the mercy of whoever was available. The merciful was typically my climbing coach Lance Hadfield, but if he wasn’t able, it was my friend Nathan. Both were fundamental to my development as a climber. And not just because they were willing to take me climbing and teach me necessary skills. But for the friendships we formed as a result of our common passion. This concept of common passion has stuck with me, it’s something I’ve pursued throughout my life, building and seeking community wherever I go.

Younger me did not care about conditions: even climbing in direct sunlight

One of those memorable weekends came after an excruciating four days just hoping for Friday. We took off south towards a little-known limestone area called the Tunnel. I had no prior knowledge of the area, except for the fact that Nate and Lance had climbed there before, and that there would be something challenging to try. That was good enough for me. I never questioned their suggestions.

We only spent two days there and I climbed a few of the classics – to me, it was a perfect weekend. At the time, I would have considered any climbing weekend perfect. In the rain, the heat, bouldering, sport climbing, long drive, short drive, it never mattered. My subjective opinion for rock formed later once I was able to travel to hard-to-pronounce places and famous climbing destinations. Which made returning to the Tunnel last year — over 15 years later — even more special.

Growing up as a youth climber. You may recognize the guy on the left.

You’d think my opinion of the Tunnel would be different. You’d think that compared to some of the amazing places I’ve been, the Tunnel just wouldn’t hold up. Well, not really. 

I was surprised to find myself inspired. A little older, a little wiser, what I saw at the Tunnel was a potential and beautiful climbing community that’s changed, emerged, and evolved. Much of that is due to the generous and kind presence of John and Tracey Hymer. John is a prolific route developer in southern New Mexico, where the Tunnel is located. It’s clear when you meet them that they love it. It’s a special connection between the climbers and rock here that reminds me of iconic areas like Ceuse or Siurana. These places are inspiring natural environments sure, but their reputations wouldn’t exist if not for the communities that frequents and cares for them.

Stewards of the crag: Tracey and John Hymer

After revisiting the Tunnel and relocating to New Mexico, I started exploring and bolting some new routes. It took me back to my early climbing days where I would lie awake at night envisioning lines, only this time I’m the one tracing the dotted lines and placing the bolts marked by X’s.

Bolting new lines...

The process is still fresh. And the new routes remain unclimbed. But that will change soon enough. I see my future here. I see that this could be a place where I create a lasting impression. A place where I leave something behind for future generations and bring to life my own vision for New Mexico climbing. Despite the magnitude of the projects, one thing remains the same — I can’t wait to meet the amazing community that makes the Tunnel what it is. 

And hopefully maybe someday the next generation of climbers will visit this place and be inspired to take it further.

Myself and John Hymer 
Building a new community