Training for mountaineering w/ Andres Marin

Getting strong. For Petzl Team member Andres Marin, training at home, on the road, and even in basecamp is what allows him to perform at his max on the remote alpine routes he loves. In this article, Marin shares his tips and techniques for getting fit for mountaineering.

Training is a process

Training is an interesting thing. I always strive to find the best balance and “perfect recipe” and have many realizations along the way. At the end of the day, training for mountaineering is such a wonderful journey and trying your best is the most important part of it all.

I basically start my training way before the season starts. I normally start training in the fall for my spring objectives. The longer you give yourself, the better results you will have. The more I learn, the more I realize how consistent and focused you have to be in order to see results, and often times that takes longer than expected. Patience is your best friend. At the end of the day, you have to understand that you can't be good at everything--especially when you come back from a 7-week expedition in Alaska or the Himalayas. That’s when the warm-ups at the local crag feel more like a project and your project feels more like something only Chris Sharma or Margo Hayes should be working.

Endurance vs power

For mountaineering, the key is having super good cardiovascular endurance. This makes it so that most of my training happens bellow my aerobic threshold (AeT). I also use periodization to focus on other aspects of my training. This is something that I have learned while training with my friends and mentors at Uphill Athlete. 

There are many books out there about training. So far, the best one I’ve found is Training for the New Alpinist by Steve House and Scott Johnston. It focuses on having a strong foundation. Like a pyramid with endurance at the bottom and power at the top with the rest of what you need in the middle.

Get specific

I keep the cardio going all the time until I’m ready to focus on a specific goal. If I’m are going to climb a mixed route in the mountains, I do as much mixed climbing as possible in my local areas. Mimicking your main event as close as possible will set you up for success. 

Use a gym

I like to refer to training as ”fun homework” and I use tools such as my watch, heart rate monitor, and training recording apps to help. My wonderful trainer, Carolyn Parker with Uphill Athlete helps me keep things on track, efficient, and fun.  

The gym is where I go to do some of my homework. This is the place where I can focus on very specific workouts such as lower or upper body stuff. You can also utilize the gym to do simulation routines in a controlled environment. Once I’m ready to start, I get some tunes rolling and let the beats take me into a flow.

Train at home

Home is where everything can be in balance and that is the best for training. Even if you live in the middle of the city, you can still find time to get your homework done. The key to success is consistency and I find I can focus better at home on different aspects of my training while remaining regular and consistent. I have all my tools nearby such as gym, mountains, hills, running trails, rock and ice climbing, and regular partners. Likewise, nutrition, stretching, and wellness are easily attainable and done at home.

Train on the road

Finding a steady routine on the road is hard. So I take every opportunity I can. If I’m staying in a hotel, I take advantage of their gym if they have one. Otherwise, you have to get creative in order to keep your schedule on point. I find myself going for runs around town, hitting the hills, and utilizing the local climbing areas and gyms.

Train at basecamp

I just came back from an expedition on the Central Alaska Range where we had about 10 to 11 feet of new snow in less than a week. I shoveled base camp every morning for one of my workouts: 10 times with my right side and the same with my left until the tent area was spotless. I also stomped out the runway for hours every day making sure to stay below my AeT zone. 

The Alex Lowe pull up bar is the single best training tool while on the glacier. Dig a deep hole in the snow, deep enough so you can hang with bent knees and straight arms. Put your skis across the trench and start cranking as many pull-ups as you can...every day.

The key training for mountaineering is to stay positive; be around people that push you in good directions and stay focused.