Attaching a rope to the harness - Petzl USA
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Attaching a rope to the harness

Tying-in with a knot or attaching a rope with a carabiner dœs not offer the same degree of safety; the choice should be made depending on the situation.

Warnings

  • Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
  • It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
  • Mastering these techniques requires training.
  • Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.

A knot is the best solution for tying in or attaching a rope to the harness.

It is the proven solution, strong in all directions of pull, even during a fall with rotation or external impacts. Moreover, the probability of a knot coming undone is near zero if correctly tied.

A knot is advised in any situation presenting a fall risk and no possibility of redundancy: climbing, roped progression, rope access...

1. Risks related to attachment with a single carabiner

Risk of the carabiner opening due to poor gate closure or improper locking (manual or automatic) of the locking sleeve.

Risk of the carabiner opening due to rubbing on the locking sleeve, causing the gate to open.

Risk of carabiner breakage due to poor carabiner positioning, or force on the locking sleeve.

2. Solutions for reducing the risks related to attaching a rope to the harness with a carabiner

It is recommended to observe the following precautions, and to combine solutions.

Equipment solutions:

- Use a second system (redundancy).

- Use a carabiner positioning system to reduce the risk of poor positioning.

- Use a carabiner that unlocks only with a tool, to reduce the risk of accidental opening.

Whatever the equipment solution, user vigilance is essential:

- Verify that the carabiner is correctly closed, locked and positioned at the moment it is installed.

- During use, regularly check to ensure that the carabiner stays correctly closed, locked and positioned.

- Keep the system under tension to reduce the risk of a fall and of uncontrolled carabiner movement.

2.1. Redundancy solutions (use of two independent systems)

Redundancy dœs not reduce the risk of system failure, but it helps reduce the consequences (on condition that each system is independent and effective separately).

Two locking carabiners in parallel with opposed gates

(see explanation at bottom of page)


No special equipment.

Redundant carabiners.

Carabiners cannot be positioned.

Two separate ropes, each with a locking carabiner


Full redundancy.

Carabiners can be positioned.

It is necessary to simultaneously manage the tension in the two ropes.

Precautions for use

• Verify the carabiner is correctly closed and properly placed at the moment it is installed.

• During use, regularly check to ensure that the carabiner stays correctly closed, locked and positioned.

• Keep the system under tension to reduce the risk of a fall and of uncontrolled carabiner movement.

2.2. Solutions for carabiner positioning on a rope

The carabiner positioning system helps limit poor positioning. Combined with a triple action locking system, it helps reduce the risk of accidental opening in use (if the carabiner was correctly closed and locked during installation).

TRIACT-LOCK or BALL-LOCK carabiner, with plastic sleeve on the rope end


Rapid attachment.

Good carabiner positioning.

No redundancy.

No mitigation of the risk of improper locking during installation.

TRIACT-LOCK or BALL-LOCK with CAPTIV and a well-tightened knot


Rapid attachment.

Works with any rope.

No redundancy.

No mitigation of the risk of improper locking during installation.

If the knot has a large loop, there is a risk of poor positioning on the CAPTIV: see the CAPTIV Instructions for Use.

Precautions for use

• Verify the carabiner is correctly closed and properly placed at the moment it is installed.

• During use, regularly check to ensure that the carabiner stays correctly closed, locked and positioned.

• Keep the system under tension to reduce the risk of a fall and of uncontrolled carabiner movement.

2.3. Solutions for semi-permanent attachment with connectors that open with a tool

Whenever possible, use a semi-permanent connector that locks with a tool, which greatly reduces the chance of accidental opening.

RING OPEN

(or quick link)


The only solution equivalent to using a knot.

Circular connector: equal strength in all axes (unless loaded over an edge).

No weak point like a carabiner's locking sleeve.

No faster to use than a knot

Am’D PIN-LOCK with plastic sleeve on the rope end


Can be opened with a generic tool (point), no special key required.

Very low risk of the carabiner opening due to rubbing on the locking sleeve.

No redundancy.

No mitigation of the risk of improper locking during installation.

Precautions for use

• Verify the carabiner is correctly closed and properly placed at the moment it is installed.

Precautions for use

• Verify the carabiner is correctly closed and properly placed at the moment it is installed.

• During use, regularly check to ensure that the carabiner stays correctly closed, locked and positioned.

• Keep the system under tension to reduce the risk of a fall and of uncontrolled carabiner movement.

3. Appendix

Redundancy solution with two locking carabiners: explanation of carabiner positioning.

The carabiners must be in parallel with opposed gates.

The goal is that the two gate openings never have the same orientation, even if one of the carabiners rotates during use.

Correct initial positioning of the two carabiners:

Positioning due to movement while in use.

Incorrect initial positioning of the two carabiners:

Positioning due to movement while in use.