Petzl RocTrip, Getting the last laugh in Rila

The base camp in Rila, the final stage in Bulgaria, was hit pretty hard by the rain. From September 22-24, the inclement weather seemed determined to completely drown the 2014 Petzl RocTrip caravan. Nevertheless, RocTrippers proved once again their incredible, positive state of mind, and their insatiable appetite for climbing.

Monday, September 22. Waterlogged!

Birthplace of Orthodox Christianity, Rila is the equivalent of a small Bulgarian Vatican. The fortified walls of the colossal monastery have housed monks and pilgrims for twelve straight centuries. From all over Christendom, people come here to sign the cross at the fountains flowing with holy water. The high surrounding gneiss rock walls also gave birth to Bulgarian mountaineering. In 1938, the unexpected successful climb of Maliovitza's north face started it all. It was under such stellar auspices that the Petzl RocTrip caravan set up camp in Rila.

At the base of Devil's Spires, climbers met the lord of the manor, a silver fir tree that rises a full seventy meters from bottom to top. The conifers' life expectancy? Four hundred years on average! In any case, we set our sights on other local giants. Deep in the forest where moss and mushrooms reign, huge gneiss boulders lie in wait with a rather unpleasant surprise: all soaking wet and completely unclimbable! The rain and night start to fall. Around the crackling campfires, RocTrippers discuss the weather forecast. Between those who prefer to flee the area towards supposedly sunnier skies and those optimistic about tomorrow's conditions, the conversation proves rather intense. 

Tuesday, September 23. The Japanese lead the charge

Will the morning's window of sunny weather suffice to dry out the rock before the next storm rolls in? While some pack their bags, Japanese Sachi Amma and Akiyo Noguchi arrive all smiles straight from a competition in Stuttgart, where they climbed brilliantly. Without missing a step, these two top-guns on the world cup circuit slalom between drops of rain and dash off to pull hard on whatever crimpers they find. After dispatching with ease a handful of 7c (V9) and 8a (V11) boulder problems, Sachi says with his radiant smile, "We went to the first area, which is the most spread out and where almost everything was dry. These boulders clearly fell from the mountain tops. Some are huge, but with safe landings. Every line I saw looked superb, with several different types of problems. I really enjoyed The Mask, 8a (V11). The locals were great, super motivated, and took the time to show us around. Rila is similar to areas in Japan like Ogawa Yama, near Nagano. Otherwise, the high-quality rock reminds me of Magic Wood in Switzlerland, the mountain landscapes of Melloblocco in Italy, and the thick forest of Ötzal in Austria. Before coming, I did a bit of Internet research on Rila. I learned that several of my countrymen and women come here to visit the monastery. This place is simply magnificent. There is a slightly "Asian" feel, with the colorful mural frescoes, and various gildings. I am not religious, even though I come from a Buddhist culture, but I enjoy visiting beautiful churches when I have the chance."

 
Wednesday, September 24. Klemen Bečan, there's always a silver lining

To wait out the storm, RocTrippers invent new games and come up with countless ways to pass the time. The bikes come out as well for picturesque rides on the surrounding forest roads. Some go for a long run in the mountains while others play cards. Slacklines are pulled tight between the area's stout trees. After the hectic pace of the last few days, more than a few take advantage of the forced down-time to catch up on some sleep. Recovering and recharging one's batteries are more than a simple luxury now halfway through the trip.

Knowing how to adapt is the motto of the itinerant climber, and there is one in particular who knows how to take full advantage of random bad luck, Slovenian Klemen Bečan. He who runs on "Strongberry juice" (watch the Romania video for the 2014 Petzl RocTrip) has an engine that broke down twice in one week; enough to discourage most people. Apparently Nicolas Bouvier's "The way of the world" and Robert Persig's "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" are their bibles. The breakdown delays their arrival in Rila to the day after it rains, when the caravan is already on its way to Macedonia. A small group of lucky stragglers end up more than ecstatic to climb in the sun. "The weather was beautiful! The holds were damp at times, but a towel and a little chalk made haste… With the wind, conditions were perfect. I was able to send several 8a (5.13b), it was great. There's much more to Rila than bouldering, there are fantastic multi-pitch routes, both trad and sport. This is a great place to set up base camp; I will come back to the area for sure! Also, I've been so surprised to run into people from the Petzl RocTrip everywhere I go. Not only at each spot, but also on the road, making it feel like all of Eastern Europe is involved."

As we have seen throughout, making the best of sometimes unfortunate circumstances, the 2014 Petzl RocTrip caravan is back on the road. Leaving with the thought that "we'll definitely be back," RocTrippers drove two hundred and fifty kilometers. At the halfway point, during what should have been a simple formality turned into the tricky crux of the drive: crossing the border into Macedonia. A section of road that everyone now agrees is rated B6+, as in "Border 6+" on the open scale of border crossing difficulty ratings. The details for this particular story to come when we publish our next news article entitled, "Held up at the border for trafficking t-shirts."

Report by Guillaume Vallot