Apocalypse Now In Newfoundland

“I watched a snail crawl along the edge of a straight razor. That's my dream; that's my nightmare. Crawling, slithering, along the edge of a straight razor... and surviving.” —Apocalypse Now

In March of 2014 Petzl athlete Will Mayo made the first ascent of a route he’s named Apocalypse Now, on the Cholesterol Wall in Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park. Apocalypse Now climbs 220m of mixed ice and rock and reaches difficulties of WI7 and M9. Initially attempted in the early 2000s by Northeast hardman Joe Terravecchia, the route remained unclimbed after it twice collapsed on Terravecchia, leaving him with broken bones on both occasions.

When warm weather in Norway scuttled Mayo’s climbing plans, he began to look for alternatives. Having heard of the mixed possibilities in Newfoundland Mayo reached out to Terravecchia who suggested an attempt at Apocalypse Now.

Early March found Mayo and partner Anna Pfaff in Newfoundland. The pair spent four days climbing and fixing the first five pitches of WI7 and M8 climbing. On their fifth day of climbing, Mayo returned to the pair’s highpoint and onsighted the crux M9 pitch and a final pitch of WI6. For a full trip report visit Mayo’s blog,

Petzl was able to sit down with Will after his trip and ask more questions about this stunning climb.

Petzl: Joe Terravechia goes up and the climb collapses and breaks his shoulder. He goes back and it breaks his leg. After everything that happened to Joe on the climb, what made you want to attempt it?

Will Mayo commits to the hanging icicle at the top of the crux pitch. [Photo] John Price

WM: No. What happened to Joe the first time is he was in the couloir directly below the ice. That couloir is a giant funnel. On the climb I knocked an icicle off and watched it pummel, just pummel, that couloir. We never even considered being in there. We took a more direct line up the wall that was a lot more technically demanding, but also a lot safer from objective hazards.

Petzl: What about Joe’s other accident on the crux?

WM: Ice always forms differently. I’d seen a picture Joe took just before it collapsed on him. So we situated our belay in a different place. When I stepped up to that icicle I was confident in my gear and confident that my belay was safe if something happened.

Petzl: You described the transition from the rock to ice on the crux pitch as terrifying, even though you just said you were confident in your gear and the belay, what does that mean?

Mayo leading the “striking” corner. Photo: © John Price

WM: When I have faith in my gear, it’s still terrifying. I have had icicles collapse on me. I have taken falls. I have done it all before, hundreds of times. And I just have this feeling of when I can go for it, and when I have to back down, but it's still intense. Maybe it’s excitement as much as terror. It’s the balance of terror and excitement that make it so satisfying for me. That’s what I am seeking when I do these climbs, those moments when I am excited and terrified and everything is on the line. Those moments of being intensely present in the now, are really therapeutic.

Petzl: You’ve climbed a lot of amazing routes, and established some impressive climbs but you’re calling that crux pitch the best pitch of your life and this climb the over all the best climb of your life. What makes Apocalypse Now so good?

Mayo onsighting the crux M9 sixth pitch. Photo: © John Price

WM: From the very beginning we had Joe’s experiences hanging over our heads. His near miss accidents heightened our state of mind. It felt like we were settling the score for Joe. It’s a beautiful, stunning climb, but not something to be trifled with. And each of the pitches leading up to the sixth (crux) were excellent. The climbing was amazing, the gear was good enough. It was run out and spicy but it was never unsafe. It was like fighting against uncertainty. We didn’t know it was going to go, and every time I started having doubts about my safety the protection would present itself. To be there, hanging at the fifth belay, with everything we had just been through, feeling the pressure of what happened to Joe, and then have all of those emotions lead into this absolutely striking corner system was... perfect. If you had to ask me to describe my dream pitch, it would be that pitch: high on a wall, in a remote place, with beautiful three-dimensional ice, and solid rock.

Petzl: What does that feel like?

Mayo leaving the protection of the fifth belay. Photo: © Anna Pfaff

WM: When you’re at the base of a climb like this, one that’s never been done, and moreover one that’s been tried with not good results, that unknown and that history make it more appealing. Hanging at the belay, racking up with numb fingers but still finding the courage to try and then to have that unknown unfold itself, it was a phenomenon. The gear was amazingly solid, and the climbing was difficult but I was able to pull it off. The fear was there, and the uncertainty. The hooks were really tenuous but I had to have the courage to try, to go on a single-tooth hook in completely virgin terrain. Going up with just the gear I had on the rack... When all of it comes together, it is a phenomenon.

Petzl: How did you get Anna Pfaff into this? You two had just met at the Michigan Icefest. How did you pitch this, the best climb of your life and a climb with a dangerous reputation, to someone you just met? What was her response?

WM: She was just as psyched to go and said yes without a moment's hesitation. It’s exceptionally rare to find someone who really loves this type of climbing, and there aren't that many climbers that I would feel comfortable doing this type of climbing with. It boils down to generosity of the spirit. When I know my partner wants me to succeed as much as I want to, and I want them to succeed as much as they do, good things happen. But if there's any doubt or insecurity, it’s not a good place to be.

Petzl: Is there a common trait your partners share? What is it that the people you click with have in common?

WM: I think it is generally optimism and stoicism. Not looking at the glass as half empty, being positive, and confronting adversity with a smile.

Petzl: Is there any specific gear you used on the climb, that you felt made a difference?

WM: I can’t really emphasize enough that all the Petzl gear is the best: ATTACHE ‘biners, DART crampons, SUM’TEC third tool, and NOMICs. The NOMICs revolutionized ice tools and still today they are basically identical to when they first came out. They are without a doubt the best ice tools on the market for anything. I use them alpine climbing, sport mixed climbing, trad mixed, chugging up an icicle… They are the best for anything.