Spotting and belaying at the start of the route
Spotting can help reduce the consequences of a fall in the first few meters of a climb, before the climber has clipped the first protection point.
- Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
- It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
- Mastering these techniques requires training.
- Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.
Spotting is not about catching the climber. It's about guiding the climber's movements so that s/he lands in a good location and dœs not flip over backwards in a fall.
The spotter's technique must be adapted to the height and size of the climber. Generally the spotter's hands aim for the pelvis and the top of the climber's back, which are the key points for the climber's safety.
The belayer should spot until the first point is clipped. During this phase, the rope and belay device are already installed, with enough slack for the climber to clip the first point.
Once the first point is clipped, the belayer assumes a normal belaying stance.
To reduce the risk of groundfall:
The belayer must be close enough to the wall to minimize the amount of rope between him/her and the climber.
To avoid a collision in case of a fall:
The belayer must correctly visualize the trajectory of the route to avoid being below the climber. Position the rope so that it dœsn't hinder the climber. Because the belayer is close to the wall and to the climber, the rope often gets caught in the climber's feet or interferes with the next clip. By being mobile and engaged, the belayer can make things go a lot easier in that moment.
- Good practices for belaying a lead climber
- Universal technique for correct use of a belay device.
- Spotting and belaying at the start of the route
- Belaying a leader climber: vigilance, anticipation and mobility
- Stopping a climbing fall
- Communication when climbing
- Top-rope belaying with the GRIGRI anchored to the ground.
- Belaying with the GRIGRI
- Video: Belaying with a GRIGRI
- VIDEO - Specific left-handed technique
- Belaying with the REVERSO
- Video - The Worst Belayer in the World
- Carabiner basics
- Choice of carabiner for attaching a GRIGRI to the harness
- Choice of carabiners for attaching a VERSO or REVERSO to the harness
- Choice of lanyard end carabiner for a rock climbing or via ferrata lanyard
- Choice of carabiners for attaching the rope to the anchor
- Examples of dangerous carabiner loading.
- Attaching a rope to the harness
- To read for self-belaying
- General principles for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
- Setting up a self-belay system on two ropes with two ascenders
- Installation on one single rope with two ascenders
- Appendix 1: Petzl dœs not recommend using only one ascender for self-belaying.
- Appendix 2: Detail of installation on two ropes with two ascenders
- Appendix 3: Detail of installation on one rope with two ascenders
- Appendix 4: Precautions and introduction to risk analysis
- Appendix 5: Analysis of solutions observed in the field - Use of a single ascender with knots in the rope.
- Appendix 6: Analysis of solutions observed in the field. Use of one ascender and clipping into knots on a second rope