Second climber stuck: hauling on a loaded rope - Petzl Other
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Second climber stuck: hauling on a loaded rope

When the second falls on an overhang, if he cannot ascend under his own power, the leader must find a way to haul him up. When there is enough rope available, it is easiest to send the belayer end of the rope to the second to help him, making the rope end he is hanging on act as a back-up belay. If this maneuver is not possible, it is necessary to install a hauling system on the climber end of the rope, which is under tension. The weight must be transferred from the REVERSO 4 to a progress capture pulley at the head of the hauling system. With only one second and using a half rope, this transfer is simple with the rope release function of the REVERSO 4.

Warnings

  • Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
  • It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
  • Mastering these techniques requires training.
  • Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.

 

 

Make a mule knot on one of the ropes, on the braking side of the REVERSO 4.

1. Make a mule knot on one of the ropes, on the braking side of the REVERSO 4. This knot allows the rope to be released, freeing the hands for the maneuver.

 

 Install the MICRO TRAXION progress capture pulley on the other rope, on the load side.

2. Install the MICRO TRAXION progress capture pulley on the other rope, on the load side. Check that the direction of the installation is appropriate for hauling (the MICRO TRAXION glides downward, blocks upward). Connect the MICRO TRAXION to a sling connected to the master point of the anchor.

 

 

Use the carabiner as a handle in the carabiner hole of the REVERSO 4 to release the rope.

3. Use the carabiner as a handle in the carabiner hole of the REVERSO 4 to release the rope. The load is now transferred to the MICRO TRAXION.

 

 

The MICRO TRAXION may be used as a progress capture pulley in simple or complex haul systems.

4. The MICRO TRAXION may be used as a progress capture pulley in simple or complex haul systems.

The choice of hauling system depends on the situation: the weight of the second, rope drag over rock, etc.

During hauling, continually take up the slack in the second rope end to maintain the back-up belay.