Choice of carabiners for attaching a VERSO or REVERSO to the harness - Petzl Norway

Choice of carabiners for attaching a VERSO or REVERSO to the harness


  • Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information.
  • Mastering these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
  • We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. There may be others that we do not describe here.

Key issues and risks

The VERSO or REVERSO must be detached and re-attached each time the rope is installed, on every pitch of the climb. The large number of manipulations during the day increases the risk of error.

Each time slack is given, the rope becomes slack, so the device and its carabiner can move about and become poorly positioned, and can remain so when the system again comes under tension.

The rope running through the carabiner can rub against the locking sleeve.

The belay/rappel system's carabiner is frequently used alone, with no possibility for redundancy. If the carabiner opens or breaks, the user will certainly fall.

The most important risks to consider

The most important risks to consider

Recommendation on carabiner and accessories




Why this choice?

• The Am’D's shape offers a good support zone for the frame of the VERSO or REVERSO

• The SCREW-LOCK system allows the carabiner to remain unlocked until both ropes are installed. Warning: ropes moving through the carabiner can rub against the sleeve and unlock it: watch for the appearance of the red visual indicator.

• The BALL-LOCK system is less sensitive to the rope rubbing against the sleeve

Precautions for use


• Do a partner check at each connection

• Regularly monitor your belay device and the positioning of the carabiner during use, especially when it is reloaded after having been unloaded

• Verify that the SCREW-LOCK sleeve is properly locked at each connection (red indicator not visible)


- The ATTACHE can be used for this application. Warning: if the carabiner rotates when using larger diameter half ropes, the ropes can become damaged by the inside edges of the gate

- The TWIST-LOCK system is not recommended for this application, as the sleeve can be unlocked and the gate opened by a single motion of the rope