Belay technique: taking up slack
- Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information.
- Mastering these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
- We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. There may be others that we do not describe here.
Technique 1: hand over hand
It is suitable only for top-rope climbing as it doesn't work in situations where there is no tension in the climber-side rope. In this case, use the shuffle technique shown below.
Technique 2: shuffle technique
Recommended technique for quickly taking up lots of slack or when there is no tension in the climber-side rope. WARNING: the hand on the brake side slides along the rope, but must never let go of the rope.
Technique 3 (PBUS technique – Pull Brake Under Slide)
Variation of techniques 1 and 2. WARNING: the hand on the brake side slides along the rope, but must never let go of the rope.
Regardless of the technique used, never let go of the brake-side rope
Included in this article
VERSO Compact, lightweight belay/rappel device, for use with one or two rope strands and for rappelling REVERSO® Versatile, lightweight belay/rappel device, for use with one or two rope strands and ability to belay a second climber from the anchor GRIGRI® + Belay device with cam-assisted blocking and anti-panic handle, particularly suitable for learning and intensive use