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A Handbook for mountain club leaders

Thanks to the technical and financial support of the Petzl Foundation, the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) has published a new "mountain skills handbook" which is now available for national outdoor clubs and organizations. This 340-page book contains the essential knowledge required to become a hiking, climbing or mountaineering instructor.

SEPTEMBRE 2014

Cover Mémento UIAA - English version a page extracted the handbook

  • Project partner: International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) www.theuiaa.org
  • Country: International
  • Project type : Accident prevention
  • Budget: €164,000 since 2007

This handbook is intended to be used by hikers, climbers and mountaineers wishing to expand their knowledge and skill level in order to supervise a team of mountaineers. It has been specifically designed as a reference tool for trainers and instructors of mountain clubs and outdoor organizations, in line with the training standards that were set up by the UIAA Mountaineering Commission.

It includes four modules: basic knowledge, alpine hiking, climbing and mountaineering. Its purpose is to present proven techniques that can be acquired through technical training.

The handbook is based on Petzl technical drawings,which are already well-known worldwide.It was originally designed as atraining course syllabus for Nepalese mountain professionals. The interest shown in the original version sparkedfurther work to create a fuller and more comprehensive version.

The search for a clear, simple and universal style involved the best Petzl technicians, as well as contributors from mountain clubs and outdoor organizations. The goal is not to present all the techniques, or even the best, but to explain proven techniques as clearly as possible. This tool is designed to allow all to share a common core of knowledge and skills.

Originally published in French in June 2012, this handbook will hopefully formalize a common mountain language. An English version made with the helpof the Alpine Club of Canada, has been available since 2013. It is currently being translated into Turkish, Portuguese and Nepali. Other organizations will sign an agreement with the Petzl Foundation to translate it into their own languages.

Pierre Humblet, UIAA Mountaineering Commission president, says:

Pierre Humblet
"I have met many climbers around the world, who told me they acquired their first basic mountain techniques by consulting the drawings illustrating Petzl catalogs. They are a magnificent treasure. When the Petzl Foundation proposed to make a handbook based on these illustrations, I was really enthusiastic about the project. The book can be used by anyone, regardless of their origin and education. It can also be used by those who are unable to read or write. The first version was successfully tested during training sessions in Nepal, organized jointly by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), the Petzl Foundation and the UIAA.

Thanks to the enthusiasm of the Petzl Foundation, the handbook was then developed and attracted the interest of federations who themselves possess first class expertise in the field. This handbook is designed to be an essential and practical addition to the existing literature available. It is designed to be used in the field to review and consolidate knowledge, which has not been fully assimilated.

It is proposed as an additional tool for outdoor clubs and organizations, who wish to attain the training standards that were developed by the UIAA Mountaineering Commission. These training standards are primarily aimed at voluntary member organizations, who want to improve their technical skills and reduce the risk inherent in the activity. Its graphic style combined with its simplicity makes it an easy tool to use internationally. It will improve technical communication between climbers and mountaineers from every continent."

More info: www.theuiaa.org.

Updated in september 2014


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