Belaying a second from above with GRIGRI, GRIGRI + and NEOX
Expert Techniques
GRIGRI, GRIGRI + and NEOX can be used for belaying the second from the belay station on multi-pitch routes.
Warning
- Carefully read the Instructions for Use referenced in this Tech Tip before reading the Tech Tip itself. You must have read and understood the Instructions for Use to understand this supplementary information.
- Performing these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
- We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. Other techniques not described here may also exist.
Two techniques may be used: belaying with the device on the anchor, or belaying with the device on the harness with the rope redirected. In both cases, the rope must be installed in the device in the same way, respecting the marking indicating the climber side of the rope. The belayer must never let go of the brake side of the rope.
Advantages:
- Belayer displacement cushions the fall.
- Same belaying technique as for top rope belaying
Disadvantages:
- Belayer can be pulled into the redirect point in the event of a big fall or great weight difference between belayer and climber.
- Greater load on the anchor due to the pulley effect
Advantages:
- The belayer is not part of the belay chain.
- Lower load on the anchor
Disadvantages:
- No cushioning of the fall by belayer displacement
- Greater risk of the cam accidentally pressing against the rock or belay elements
- Greater risk of rope slippage if the belayer does not hold the brake side of the rope.
Take care to avoid any blocking of the device or any pressure on the cam that could negate the braking action on the rope.
The belayer must continuously hold the brake side of the rope, even while the climber is stopped.
WARNING: with NEOX, but also with GRIGRI and GRIGRI +, on thin or new ropes, if the rope isn't held, it will slide through the device under its own weight, creating dangerous slack for the climber. This can happen more easily when belaying with the device on the anchor.
If the belayer needs to have their hands free, a stopper knot can be tied in the brake side of the rope.
