© Thomas Vialletet
Belay technique: taking up slack
Length of my new rope and the middle of the rope
Change in the length of my rope after use
Fall factor and impact force - theory
Belay loop and tie-in points: where do I attach my lanyard, my belay device and my rope?
Tying in with a figure 8 knot
Friction hitches
Knots
PARTNER CHECK
Positioning the quickdraw and clipping the rope
How to install a top-rope
How to coil the rope?
Rope too short: warning - danger!
Primary dangers when using a rope
Good practices for belaying a lead climber
Universal technique for correct use of a belay device.
Spotting and belaying at the start of the route
Belaying a leader climber: vigilance, anticipation and mobility
Stopping a climbing fall
Lowering
Communication when climbing
Top-rope belaying with the GRIGRI anchored to the ground.
Belaying with the GRIGRI
Video: Belaying with a GRIGRI
VIDEO - Specific left-handed technique
Belaying with the REVERSO
Video - The Worst Belayer in the World
STRING, installation and precautions
Carabiner basics
Choice of carabiner for attaching a GRIGRI to the harness
Choice of carabiners for attaching a VERSO or REVERSO to the harness
Choice of lanyard end carabiner for a rock climbing or via ferrata lanyard
Choice of carabiners for attaching the rope to the anchor
Examples of dangerous carabiner loading.
Attaching a rope to the harness
Recovering quickdraws in an overhang while descending
Forces at work in a real fall
Influence of the belay device
Consequences of poor rope drag management in a common fall
Fall comparison with rigid/human mass
To read for self-belaying
General principles for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
Setting up a self-belay system on two ropes with two ascenders
Installation on one single rope with two ascenders
Appendix 1: Petzl does not recommend using only one ascender for self-belaying.
Appendix 2: Detail of installation on two ropes with two ascenders
Appendix 3: Detail of installation on one rope with two ascenders
Appendix 4: Precautions and introduction to risk analysis
Appendix 5: Analysis of solutions observed in the field - Use of a single ascender with knots in the rope.
Appendix 6: Analysis of solutions observed in the field. Use of one ascender and clipping into knots on a second rope
