What would be the results of tests done with 80 kg on one strand of a half rope? - Petzl USA
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What would be the results of tests done with 80 kg on one strand of a half rope?

Warnings

  • Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
  • It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
  • Mastering these techniques requires training.
  • Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.

The impact force for factor 1.77 standard falls:

TANGO 8.5 mm on 1 strand with 80 kg

F = 9.2 kN

max. number of falls before break: 3

SALSA 8.2 mm on 1 strand with 80 kg

F = 9 kN

max. number of falls before break: 2

PASO 7.7 mm on 1 strand with 80 kg

F = 8.5 kN

max. number of falls before break: 2

This means that with half ropes, it is possible to separate the 2 strands and clip only one strand several times to limit drag on a route, and be able to fall in this situation.

Attention: this does not mean that the belayer can easily stop a big fall on a single strand. It is also essential to beware of sharp edges.