Universal technique for correct use of a belay device.
Basic Techniques
All Petzl belay devices, and those of many other brands, are designed to be used with the same hand placements on the rope and the same basic belay technique.
Warning
- Carefully read the Instructions for Use referenced in this Tech Tip before reading the Tech Tip itself. You must have read and understood the Instructions for Use to understand this supplementary information.
- Performing these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
- We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. Other techniques not described here may also exist.
This hand position is valid regardless of the device used: tube, GRIGRI, REVERSO...
Your hand must never let go of the brake-side rope.
Taking up slack
To take up slack, pull the climber-side rope and pull the brake-side rope through the device. Never let go of the brake-side rope
Giving slack
To give slack, your brake-side hand pushes the rope towards the device, creating slack; your other hand pulls the rope through the device. To repeat this movement, slide your brake-side hand along the rope, without ever letting it go.
Dangerous techniques
Examples of especially dangerous behavior that must be strictly avoided.