Positioning the quickdraw and clipping the rope
Clipping a carabiner or quickdraw is a basic technique associated with the progression of a climber. At first glance, nothing too complicated. In detail, though, there are many aspects to consider in order to move quickly and surely: in particular, placement of the quickdraw into the bolt in relation to the rope, and methods of clipping the rope. For example, when clipping a half rope in the middle of a crux with a small carabiner, good clipping skills are a must... Here are some tips for making life easier and climbing in peace.
- Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
- It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
- Mastering these techniques requires training.
- Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.
1. Quickdraw positioning
Always use a quickdraw equipped with STRING type webbing protection. The anchor-end carabiner must be mobile (no STRING). The rope-end carabiner must be fixed (with STRING). Warning: never install two STRINGs on one quickdraw. It would be too rigid: risk of poor positioning (e.g. cantilevered loading).
2. Clipping the rope
With small ANGE S carabiners, it is more effective to keep the fingers on the outside. Stabilize the quickdraw carabiner and put the rope through it.
With larger ANGE L (or SPIRIT) carabiners, you can put a finger in the carabiner to stabilize it. Then insert the rope.
3. Rope path
The carabiner gate must always face away from the climber's direction of travel. The rope in the carabiner must pass through it from the cliff side to the outside. Incorrect positioning of the quickdraw or the rope could cause the rope to unclip, either due to rope movement or to the carabiner flipping on the bolt during a fall.
- Carabiner basics
- Choice of carabiner for attaching a GRIGRI to the harness
- Choice of carabiners for attaching a VERSO or REVERSO to the harness
- Choice of lanyard end carabiner for a rock climbing or via ferrata lanyard
- Choice of carabiners for attaching the rope to the anchor
- Examples of dangerous carabiner loading.
- Attaching a rope to the harness
- To read for self-belaying
- General principles for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
- Setting up a self-belay system on two ropes with two ascenders
- Installation on one single rope with two ascenders
- Appendix 1: Petzl dœs not recommend using only one ascender for self-belaying.
- Appendix 2: Detail of installation on two ropes with two ascenders
- Appendix 3: Detail of installation on one rope with two ascenders
- Appendix 4: Precautions and introduction to risk analysis
- Appendix 5: Analysis of solutions observed in the field - Use of a single ascender with knots in the rope.
- Appendix 6: Analysis of solutions observed in the field. Use of one ascender and clipping into knots on a second rope