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Community Team Petzl Andres Marin

Andres Marin

Describe your perfect day climbing? Good weather, nice ice, and snow conditions. Big face with tons of ice and mixed with splitter rock/terrain follow by a knife edge ridge to the Cumbre! Ah, and a section or two with wide splitters cracks!

Andres Marin

Profile of Andres

  • Date of birth : April 22 1983
  • Current status : Guide
  • Hometown : Ouray, Colorado
  • Activities : Mountaineering
  • Training : Guiding School
  • Joined the Petzl Team : January 1 2016

Presentation

How did you get into climbing?

In the place that I was born in Colombia, there is the Tolima Volcano that always fascinated me. This volcano was my first real climbing experience, aside from climbing on everything imaginable at home. Subsequently, I grew interested in rock climbing too. There are some canyons nearby that we would go climb in. I started to climb in Colombia when I was in high school.

What’s your claim to fame?

Like to suffer climbing in the mountains or in wide cracks in the desert, always with a smile on my face.

What is your favorite piece of gear?

Nomics

How do you maintain motivation?

I'm always psyched, but good company is a great source of motivation. Also, having projects always keeps the stoke high for training and to stay focused up!!

If your climbing was a style of music what would it be and why?

Metal. It is hard to understand why, but once you unlock the meaning and good sound of a double drum bass it's like finding the passage on a big face that has never been climbed!!

When were you the most scared climbing?

2011 in Kyrgyzstan/China - While on an exploratory expedition where we climb two new peaks. 2016 in the Revelations Mountains AK- While on an exploratory expedition where we got hit by a huge storm.

Fred Beckey or Fred Nicole?

The good old Fred Beckey for sure! Although Nicole is a rock crusher and a great inspiration too!

Power, enduro, or technical climbing?

All of them are great! Bring them all on! I'm an alpinist, so style is not much a concern for me. I may pull on a draw or two to put the rope up though.

What’s the most challenging part of your training?

Staying injury free and executing the right periodization in order to peak at the right time.

If you couldn’t climb, what would you do?

Play music, jump from cliffs and planes.

How long have you gone without climbing?

One month. I ran the Chicago marathon of the couch for a not for profit and end up with a wicked foot injury. And 19 days. While on an alpine climbing expedition where the weather was horrible the whole time.

What’s your favorite type of rock?

Hard one!! Sand stone for crack climbing. Limestone for sport climbing. Granite for alpine climbing.

If you could only have one, would you choose pizza or beer?

This question is as hard as choosing going right or left on a big unclimbed alpine face!! You are killing me with this one!

Do you have a nickname?

The Colombian Missile (my good friend and mentor Vince Anderson gave me that nickname) - On a good day I can climb really really fast.

What was your least favorite subject in school?

Math.

Figure-eight or bowline?

Revolving overhand 

Describe your perfect day climbing?

Good weather, nice ice, and snow conditions. Big face with tons of ice and mixed with splitter rock/terrain follow by a knife edge ridge to the Cumbre! Ah, and a section or two with wide splitter cracks!

If you could go back in time and give yourself one piece of advice what would it be?

Learn sooner about in-depth training and human physiology.

Could you give us two truths and a lie? 

I love climbing in the Alaska range. I play golf. I like Indian Food. 

What do you do when you’re not climbing? 

Read good books, research about remote alpine areas to go explore, and help some climbing companies that I work for on the research and development for their alpine products.