Climbing with alternate leaders - Petzl USA
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Climbing with alternate leaders

The ground is farther away, the stations are often small and sometimes uncomfortable, communication can be difficult... It is therefore important to be organized and efficient to avoid fatigue and unnecessary stress. On multi-pitch routes, efficiency means not only safety, but also enjoyment.

Warnings

  • Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
  • It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
  • Mastering these techniques requires training.
  • Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.

At the base of the climb

• Establish communication at the station: verbal or hand signals 

Communication must be clear and concise. When there are multiple climbing parties in the area, use first names to avoid any confusion

• Prepare the rope and tie in correctly to avoid twists in the rope after a few pitches

• Do a partner check

Leader arriving at station

• Check anchor points. Tie in with a clove hitch on each anchor. Use a quickdraw as a directional anchor for the next pitch

Leader arriving at station

• The leader quickly takes up the slack. Be sure to keep the rope organized, for example looped over your feet from the biggest to the smallest loop. Avoid making loops that are too large or letting the rope hang from the station, as it can get caught in a crack, vegetation...

• Equalize your anchor (see Installing an equalized anchor)

Design it with consideration for the quality of the anchors and the configuration of the route. Install your REVERSO. Belaying the second

The leader quickly takes up the slack

Second arriving at station

• The second ties in and takes draws if necessary. Transfer the REVERSO 4 to the belay point on the harness without removing the knot under the REVERSO 4

Second arriving at station

• Clip the directional point (which should be of excellent quality). Remove the knot under the REVERSO 4. The second becomes the leader.

Clip the directional point