Appendix 3: Detail of installation on one rope with two ascenders
- Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
- It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
- Mastering these techniques requires training.
- Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.
1. Descender : + backup ascender + footloop.
2. Climber who is focused and conscious that he/she is alone.
3. Primary rope: Ø > 10 mm dynamic (EN 892) or low stretch kernmantel (EN 1891).
4. Two point anchor, in the route's fall line, positioned to minimize rub points.
5. Solid anchor.
6. Beware of rockfall during access.
7. Access rope with intermediate anchor.
8. Clear space in front of the climber: no clothing hiding the ascender, no pack cord or strap that can interfere with the system's operation.
9. Self-belay system with two ascenders.
10. A light suspended weight to help the ascenders slide.
Example of premature wear on a fixed rope:
- The quickdraw helps avoid collisions between the devices, but should not reduce comfort: adjust its length so the straps do not pull on the neck during a rest or fall.
- The two ascenders must not be connected to the same point on the harness: they can collide and be damaged during a fall.
- Respect the recommended ascender position: BASIC above and ASCENSION below. The reverse position turns out to be tricky when changing systems from ascending to descending.
- Always carry a descender (GRIGRI) and a footloop/ascender combo (TIBLOC + ANNEAU) to ascend the rope in case of failure to complete the climb.
- Roofs and traverses complicate the system: they require numerous directional points and additional precautions. Do another risk analysis for these particular cases.
- Carabiner basics
- Choice of carabiner for attaching a GRIGRI to the harness
- Choice of carabiners for attaching a VERSO or REVERSO to the harness
- Choice of lanyard end carabiner for a rock climbing or via ferrata lanyard
- Choice of carabiners for attaching the rope to the anchor
- Choice of carabiners for hauling systems and pulley attachment
- Examples of dangerous carabiner loading.
- To read for self-belaying
- General principles for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
- Setting up a self-belay system on two ropes with two ascenders
- Installation on one single rope with two ascenders
- Appendix 1: Petzl dœs not recommend using only one ascender for self-belaying.
- Appendix 2: Detail of installation on two ropes with two ascenders
- Appendix 3: Detail of installation on one rope with two ascenders
- Appendix 4: Precautions and introduction to risk analysis
- Appendix 5: Analysis of solutions observed in the field - Use of a single ascender with knots in the rope.
- Appendix 6: Analysis of solutions observed in the field. Use of one ascender and clipping into knots on a second rope