Belaying the leader - Petzl USA

Belaying the leader


  • Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
  • It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
  • Mastering these techniques requires training.
  • Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.

We recommend using a dynamic rope (EN 892) for belaying the leader. Dynamic ropes are designed to hold and reduce the impact of a leader fall.

Fall factor 1 tests have shown (at the climber level) shock forces less than 6 kN with dynamic ropes, and greater than 6 kN with semi-static ropes (new ropes).

When there is a risk of a fall factor 1 or greater fall, use a dynamic rope.

Warning: When there is drag (significant rubbing friction on the belay rope) the actual fall factor can be greater than 1.

Device attached to the harness (position c)

Verify the rope is correctly installed before use.

You belay your partner by holding the brake side of the rope in one hand, and the climber side in the other.

To facilitate rope glide, focus more on pushing the brake side of the rope into the device rather than pulling the climber side of the rope.

To stop a fall, firmly grip the brake side of the rope.

To lower a climber, the manipulation of the device is similar to the description found under "Descent".


Technical tips