Belaying the leader on dynamic rope using climbing techniques
The I'D has not been certified with dynamic ropes. Outside the standards framework, it is possible to use the I'D with dynamic rope, following the usual minimum and maximum diameter recommendation.
- Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
- It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
- Mastering these techniques requires training.
- Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.
I'D S performance test, fall arrest on small-diameter dynamic rope:
|Rope type||Impact force||Onset of rope slippage in the I’D|
|Petzl CONTACT rope||3.6 kN||160 cm|
In access situations using climbing technique, a dynamic rope can reduce the impact force experienced by the leader if he falls.
The belayer must always hold the brake side of the rope.
The belayer must be vigilant and anticipate the climber's movements.
Warning: though dynamic ropes can improve comfort when belaying the leader, they are generally less effective in other work situations due to their greater elasticity:
- Work positioning is less precise.
- Greater clearance is required for fall arrest.
- At each loading / unloading, dynamic rope stretches more than a low stretch kernmantel rope. Rope chafing against the structure can be greater.
During progression, a special technique is required in order to smoothly give slack:
The I'D must be held between the index finger and thumb, and angled downward, while always holding the brake side of the rope. This allows rope to be fed to the climber fast enough to keep pace with his progress.