Belaying the leader on dynamic rope using climbing techniques
The I'D has not been certified with dynamic ropes. Outside the standards framework, it is possible to use the I'D with dynamic rope, following the usual minimum and maximum diameter recommendation.
- Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
- It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
- Mastering these techniques requires training.
- Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.
I'D S performance test, fall arrest on small-diameter dynamic rope:
|Rope type||Impact force||Onset of rope slippage in the I’D|
|Petzl CONTACT rope||3.6 kN||160 cm|
In access situations using climbing technique, a dynamic rope can reduce the impact force experienced by the leader if he falls.
The belayer must always hold the brake side of the rope.
The belayer must be vigilant and anticipate the climber's movements.
Warning: though dynamic ropes can improve comfort when belaying the leader, they are generally less effective in other work situations due to their greater elasticity:
- Work positioning is less precise.
- Greater clearance is required for fall arrest.
- At each loading / unloading, dynamic rope stretches more than a low stretch kernmantel rope. Rope chafing against the structure can be greater.
During progression, a special technique is required in order to smoothly give slack:
The I'D must be held between the index finger and thumb, and angled downward, while always holding the brake side of the rope. This allows rope to be fed to the climber fast enough to keep pace with his progress.
- Carabiner basics
- Choice of carabiner for attaching a descender with a safety gate (I’D S, RIG, STOP...) to the harness
- Choice of lanyard end carabiner for a work positioning lanyard
- Choice of lanyard end carabiner for a fall arrest lanyard
- Choice of carabiner for connecting a fall arrest device to the harness
- Choice of carabiners for attaching the rope to the anchor
- Choice of carabiners for hauling systems and pulley attachment
- Choice of carabiner for connecting a ZILLON or GRILLON lanyard to the harnesss
- Choice of carabiners for attaching a HUIT, RACK... to the harness
- Examples of dangerous carabiner loading.
- Attaching a rope to the harness
- ABSORBICA Y lanyards and fall arrest lanyard connector holders on the harness.
- Oblique or vertical anchors and fall distance with ABSORBICA lanyards.
- Tests of ABSORBICA lanyards in a fall over an edge
- Using two ABSORBICA I lanyards in parallel: DANGER
- ASAP usage when approaching an obstacle or the ground
- Rescuing a person hanging on an ABSORBICA lanyard
- Hauling: combined lowering/raising system
- Hauling: independent lowering/raising systems
- Release and rescue of a co-worker using a rescue kit
- Release and rescue of a co-worker suspended on a static support.
- Release and rescue of a co-worker suspended on a long rope
- Performance of the ASAP with a 250 kg load, with the ASAP fixed to an anchor.