Appendix 1: Petzl does not recommend using only one ascender for self-belaying.
Warnings
- Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information.
- Mastering these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
- We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. There may be others that we do not describe here.
Using a single ascender is technically feasible, however, accidents have been reported despite user expertise.
The risks are real in the field, so Petzl recommends using a system with a secondary belay.
This is because:
- You are moving alone over dangerous terrain
- Mishandling is always possible
- Ascenders are not specifically designed for self-belayed climbing
- It must be understood that all systems are flawed, because this means there is a risk, however minor
Examples of possible malfunctions during self-belayed solo climbing with a fixed rope.
The probability of experiencing these malfunctions is very low, but not negligible, and it only takes once...
ASCENSION:
There is a possibility of accidental opening of the cam due to rubbing against the rock, or that the device will not lock due to an external object interfering with the cam (sling, shoelace, twig...). Risk of improper attachment of the device.
MINI TRAXION:
The locking function can remain deactivated without the climber's knowledge and visual verification is not always easy. There is the possibility that the device will not lock due to an external object interfering with the cam (sling, shoelace, twig...).
BASIC:
There is a possibility of accidental opening of the cam due to rubbing against the rock, or that the device will not lock due to an external object interfering with the cam (sling, shoelace, twig...). Risk of improper attachment of the device.
New BASIC:
The new design of the upper attachment hole makes it unsuitable for use in self-belaying: there is a risk of interference between the carabiner and the safety catch. This device is not suitable for self-belaying.
MICROCENDER:
There is a possibility that the device will not lock due to an external object interfering with the cam (sling, shoelace, twig...), or if the rope is dirty, muddy, or frozen. Handling is more difficult.
RESCUCENDER:
There is a possibility that the device will not lock due to an external object interfering with the cam (sling, shoelace, twig...), or if the rope is dirty, muddy, or frozen. The device will not lock if the user grabs the device during a fall.
SHUNT:
Greater danger on sloping terrain where pressure against the device can impede locking. The device will not lock if the user grabs the device during a fall. This device is not suitable for self-belaying.
MICRO TRAXION:
There is the possibility that the device will not lock due to an external object interfering with the cam (sling, shoelace, twig...).
TIBLOC:
To work properly, the TIBLOC's teeth must be manually pressed against the rope, which is impossible to do while climbing, and dangerous at the moment a fall occurs. The TIBLOC is not suitable for self-belaying.
