Appendix 6: Analysis of solutions observed in the field. Use of one ascender and clipping into knots on a second rope
Warnings
- Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
- It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
- Mastering these techniques requires training.
- Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.
This solution is described here because it is often seen in use. It has poor ergonomics and a high risk of error.
Primary system: one ascender on the primary rope.
Secondary system: pre-tied knots spaced regularly on the second rope for clipping with a lanyard.
Advantages:
- Simplicity of the system and its installation
- Low equipment cost
Disadvantages:
- The second rope cannot be considered a belay system unless the climber is continuously connected to it A Y-lanyard must be used and the user must be clipped to the next knot before unclipping from the last knot.
- Average ease of use: the climber lifts the secondary rope with each move upwards, and supports its weight
- In case topping out is necessary to exit the route, retrieving a rope with many knots in it could be complicated or even dangerous
Risks in case of primary ascender malfunction:
- Significant potential fall length
- With an I-lanyard, the secondary belay system is not continuous
Close to the belay station, there is a risk of a fall factor 1: beware if the rope is semi-static.
With a static lanyard, the fall factor close to the belay station can be greater than 1. (A dynamic rope lanyard is preferred.)
