How to clean the anchor - Petzl United Kingdom
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How to clean the anchor

Setting up the rope for lowering from the top of a route is one of the basic techniques first learned in rock climbing. Even if it eventually becomes routine, it is important to keep in mind that at 30 to 40 m above the ground, an error can quickly have serious consequences. So stay focused when climbing and belaying!

Warnings

  • Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information.
  • Mastering these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
  • We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. There may be others that we do not describe here.

Regardless of the technique used, the belayer must continue to belay the climber throughout the entire sequence, never letting go of the brake side of the rope.

You may encounter different belay station configurations.

Case 1: belay station with points connected by a chain

Example:

Belay station with points connected by a chain

Technique 1: climber stays tied in during the entire sequence and is lowered on a carabiner

Climber stays tied in during the entire sequence and is lowered on a carabiner 1/6.
Climber stays tied in during the entire sequence and is lowered on a carabiner 2/6.
Climber stays tied in during the entire sequence and is lowered on a carabiner 3/6.
Climber stays tied in during the entire sequence and is lowered on a carabiner 4/6.
Climber stays tied in during the entire sequence and is lowered on a carabiner 5/6.

Technique 2: lowering on a tie-in knot

Lowering on a tie-in knot 1/6.
Lowering on a tie-in knot 2/6.
Lowering on a tie-in knot 3/6.
Lowering on a tie-in knot 4/6.
Lowering on a tie-in knot 5/6.
Lowering on a tie-in knot 6/6.

Case 2: belay station with unconnected points

Example:

Belay station with unconnected points 1/2
Belay station with unconnected points 2/2

1. Connect to both points with your lanyard:

Connect to both points with your lanyard.

2. For the next steps, use one of the techniques previously described, running the rope through both points of the belay station:

Run the rope through both points of the belay station 1/2
Run the rope through both points of the belay station 2/2