Universal technique for correct use of a belay device.
All Petzl belay devices, and those of many other brands, are designed to be used with the same hand placements on the rope and the same basic belay technique.
- Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information.
- Mastering these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
- We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. There may be others that we do not describe here.
This hand position is valid regardless of the device used: tube, GRIGRI, REVERSO...
Your hand must never let go of the brake-side rope.
Taking up slack
To take up slack, pull the climber-side rope and pull the brake-side rope through the device. Never let go of the brake-side rope
To give slack, your brake-side hand pushes the rope towards the device, creating slack; your other hand pulls the rope through the device. To repeat this movement, slide your brake-side hand along the rope, without ever letting it go.
Examples of especially dangerous behavior that must be strictly avoided.