Positioning the quickdraw and clipping the rope - Petzl Canada
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Positioning the quickdraw and clipping the rope

Clipping a carabiner or quickdraw is a basic technique associated with the progression of a climber. At first glance, nothing too complicated. In detail, though, there are many aspects to consider in order to move quickly and surely: in particular, placement of the quickdraw into the bolt in relation to the rope, and methods of clipping the rope. For example, when clipping a half rope in the middle of a crux with a small carabiner, good clipping skills are a must... Here are some tips for making life easier and climbing in peace.

Warnings

  • Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information.
  • Mastering these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised.
  • We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. There may be others that we do not describe here.

1. Quickdraw positioning

Always use a quickdraw equipped with STRING type webbing protection. The anchor-end carabiner must be mobile (no STRING). The rope-end carabiner must be fixed (with STRING). Warning: never install two STRINGs on one quickdraw. It would be too rigid: risk of poor positioning (e.g. cantilevered loading).

Quickdraw positioning
Quickdraw positioning
Quickdraw positioning
Quickdraw positioning
Quickdraw positioning
Quickdraw positioning
Quickdraw positioning
Quickdraw positioning
Quickdraw positioning
Quickdraw positioning

2. Clipping the rope

With small ANGE S carabiners, it is more effective to keep the fingers on the outside. Stabilize the quickdraw carabiner and put the rope through it.

Quickdraw positioning

With larger ANGE L (or SPIRIT) carabiners, you can put a finger in the carabiner to stabilize it. Then insert the rope.

Quickdraw positioning

3. Rope path

The carabiner gate must always face away from the climber's direction of travel. The rope in the carabiner must pass through it from the cliff side to the outside. Incorrect positioning of the quickdraw or the rope could cause the rope to unclip, either due to rope movement or to the carabiner flipping on the bolt during a fall.

Quickdraw positioning
Quickdraw positioning
Quickdraw positioning
Quickdraw positioning
Quickdraw positioning
Quickdraw positioning