Appendix 6: Analysis of solutions observed in the field. Use of one ascender and clipping into knots on a second rope - Petzl Canada
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Appendix 6: Analysis of solutions observed in the field. Use of one ascender and clipping into knots on a second rope

Warnings

  • Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
  • It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
  • Mastering these techniques requires training.
  • Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.

This solution is described here because it is often seen in use. It has poor ergonomics and a high risk of error.

Primary system: one ascender on the primary rope.

Secondary system: pre-tied knots spaced regularly on the second rope for clipping with a lanyard.

Primary system: one ascender on the rope.

 

Advantages:

- Simplicity of the system and its installation

- Low equipment cost

Disadvantages:

- The second rope cannot be considered a belay system unless the climber is continuously connected to it A Y-lanyard must be used and the user must be clipped to the next knot before unclipping from the last knot.

- Average ease of use: the climber lifts the secondary rope with each move upwards, and supports its weight

- In case topping out is necessary to exit the route, retrieving a rope with many knots in it could be complicated or even dangerous



Risks in case of primary ascender malfunction:

- Significant potential fall length

- With an I-lanyard, the secondary belay system is not continuous

 Close to the belay station, there is a risk of a fall factor 1: beware if the rope is semi-static.

With a static lanyard, the fall factor close to the belay station can be greater than 1. (A dynamic rope lanyard is preferred.)

Primary system: one ascender on the rope.