A moment of inattention, an instant of fatigue, excessive confidence: moments of absence in which one can quickly forget to make a knot in the end of the rope, lock a carabiner, finish the tie-in knot...oversights that often pass without notice until the day an accident happens... To help avoid this, one can adopt a simple habit, the PARTNER CHECK: a mutual checking between climber and belayer before starting each pitch.
- Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
- It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
- Mastering these techniques requires training.
- Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.
Before starting each pitch, the climber and the belayer must check each of 4 key areas to ensure climber safety:
Belay system setup:
- rope installed in the right direction (belay device function check)
- carabiner connected to the right place on the harness
- carabiner is locked
- harness waistbelt above the hips
- harness adjusted to fit snugly
- tied-in to the right place on the harness
- a proper knot
- knot completed and tightened
- knot tied in the end of the rope
Remember that before using your equipment, you must have read and understood the supplied Instructions for Use.
- Carabiner basics
- Choice of carabiner for attaching a GRIGRI to the harness
- Choice of carabiners for attaching a VERSO or REVERSO to the harness
- Choice of lanyard end carabiner for a rock climbing or via ferrata lanyard
- Choice of carabiners for attaching the rope to the anchor
- Choice of carabiners for hauling systems and pulley attachment
- Examples of dangerous carabiner loading.
- To read for self-belaying
- General principles for solo climbing with a fixed belay rope
- Setting up a self-belay system on two ropes with two ascenders
- Installation on one single rope with two ascenders
- Appendix 1: Petzl dœs not recommend using only one ascender for self-belaying.
- Appendix 2: Detail of installation on two ropes with two ascenders
- Appendix 3: Detail of installation on one rope with two ascenders
- Appendix 4: Precautions and introduction to risk analysis
- Appendix 5: Analysis of solutions observed in the field - Use of a single ascender with knots in the rope.
- Appendix 6: Analysis of solutions observed in the field. Use of one ascender and clipping into knots on a second rope