Crevasse rescue no. 1: transferring the victim's weight to an anchor - Petzl Belgique
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Crevasse rescue no. 1: transferring the victim's weight to an anchor

Once the fall has been arrested, the person on the surface holds the victim by acting as a counter-weight. Rapidly creating an anchor allows unloading of the victim's weight to organize the rescue.

Warnings

  • Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
  • It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
  • Mastering these techniques requires training.
  • Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.

1. Creating a reliable anchor: ice axe or ski buried in the snow, or an ice screw in the ice. Connecting a sling to the anchor while respecting the direction of pull towards the victim.

Creating a reliable anchor

2. Install the MICRO TRAXION on the rope in the direction of hauling: it locks when pulled toward the anchor, and slides when pulled toward the victim.

Install the MICRO TRAXION on the rope in the direction of hauling

3. Connect the MICRO TRAXION to the anchor sling with a symmetrical locking carabiner (ATTACHE 3D). Extend the sling to its maximum length while sliding the MICRO TRAXION on the rope toward the victim.

Connect the MICRO TRAXION to the anchor sling with a symmetrical locking carabiner

4. Gently release the tension of the rope on the harness to transfer the load to the MICRO TRAXION. Be careful to avoid jerky movements at this time, which would weaken the anchor.

Verify that the anchor is holding well under load. Untie the knot securing the chest loops, while remaining tied in to the end of the rope.

Gently release the tension of the rope on the harness to transfer the load to the MICRO TRAXION

5. The victim is now held only by the anchor; the rescuer is able to move freely.