Florence Pinet

Florence Pinet profile - Photo © Florence Pinet
Florence Pinet profile - Photo © Sam Bié

France

FRA
header
Photo portrait: 
Florence Pinet profile - Photo © Florence Pinet
Date de naissance: 
3 March 1986
Lieu de résidence: 
Provence, France
Statut actuel: 
nursery assistant
Date d'entrée dans le Team Petzl: 
2009

Pushing the limits
“I am a climber who loves more than anything to have a good time climbing with a great group of friends. I love to push my limits and climb fantastic routes in order to experience the beautiful movements and figure out the sequences. I love all kinds of climbing: sport climbing, boulders, big routes and especially onsight climbing. As long as it’s climbing, it’s great!”

Colonne gauche

“My favorite area is Buoux in the Provence region of southern France. I started climbing when I was six years old. I climbed everything I could and I’ve never stopped since. I’ve always done a lot of sports and I need that. I don’t like to feel closed in. I love nature and spending as much time as possible outdoors. I like the wild side, sharing, the fighting spirit, climbing a big, vertical wall like Infinity Lane in the Gorge de la Jonte at the RocTrip at Millau, France.”
 
 
“When I’m on the rock, I love to focus on my emotions and feelings rather than following some prescribed method. I like to become one with things. It’s interesting to me that what pushes me the most is the variety of movements each line offers and to use my own skills to pull them off. I am always looking for something new at every spot I visit.

 
To be successful at what I do I must focus all my efforts and determination. According to the rules of the game, if not the rule of life, my motto is: to have fun above all else. My dream is to travel to climb the most beautiful routes in the world, and to discover everything there is on Earth.”
 

Colonne droite
Diaporama Photos: 
Diaporama Videos: 

Dave Graham

Dave Graham profile - photo © Tony Lamiche
Dave Graham profile - photo © Sam Bié

USA

USA
header
Photo portrait: 
Dave Graham - photo © Sam Bié
Date de naissance: 
10 November 1981
Lieu de résidence: 
Boulder (Colorado, USA)
Statut actuel: 
Professional climber
Date d'entrée dans le Team Petzl: 
2008

An accomplishment
«I started climbing when I was 15 years old at an indoor wall and quickly moved on to bouldering and outdoor sport climbing. One day I counted how many climbing spots there are in the world and realized straight away how happy my life was going to be. Strangely enough, when I started I had no idea how much climbing would bring to my life. I wanted to go to university, become a hockey player and start a punk rock group. But now my climbing has become an extension of myself. Climbing enriches my life and connects me to millions of people with the same passion, spirit and determination.»

Colonne gauche

11 years of uninterrupted world travel
«I’ve always been inspired to learn foreign languages. They are a great way to broaden my horizons and expand my sense of reality. My goal is to continually progress. My motivation as a professional climber has been to climb the routes that have so inspired me through articles and photos in magazines. And also to develop these sectors. I am passionate about studying lines, cleaning boulders and opening new routes. My favorite places in the world are the Alps, the area around Montpellier, France, the Valais and Tessin regions in Switzerland, and Catalonia in Spain. I’ll also add the east coast of the United States and Colorado where I now live.

All of these places have had a big influence on me and the people I have met have shaped my character and taught me so many things about myself. As a young American, I had a strong connection to the ocean and the local fishing areas. As I grew up, it was really clear where my heart would take me. My intuition led me to the Alps, where the countryside offered incredible inspiration in terms of energy and art. When I return to the States, I try to use the experiences from traveling to appreciate where I come from and get new inspiration and make new connections. That’s how I work. Life is a workshop that constantly evolves.»
 
 
 
Whole days devoted to a single move
«I dedicate a lot of energy to exploring new spots where I can develop new moves to solve different problems. It’s awesome to discover new routes that require me to experiment with new ideas. Climbing for me seems to be the most creative of all sports. Inspiration hits me continuously and in a somewhat chaotic manner. It makes me happy and gives me the energy to start of the process of fulfilling my dreams. In order to succeed I have to stay open-minded and focused. I am pretty much obsessed with finding solutions to challenging problems. I can spend whole days working on a single problem.»
 
 
 
Creating my company “The Island”
was a turning point in my life

«The goals of my company:

  • Create a meeting point for climbers to share experiences
  • Create a platform to help a growing international community
  • Continued training for climbers
  • Explain the climbing lifestyle to non-climbers
  • Develop new climbing areas with 9b+ routes and 9a bouldering
  • Show my artistic view of climbing
  • Explore the opportunities for professional climbers in general
  • Produce films, explore photographic imagery and the power of words
  • Maximize the resources of the internet
  • Travel around the world with a really strong team: Jon Cardwell, Cooper Roberts, Daniel Andrada, Chris Sharma, Chad Greedy, Joe Kinder, Luke Parady, Jamie Emerson and Daniel Woods...»

 

Colonne droite
Diaporama Photos: 
Diaporama Videos: 

Dave Graham sends "Les Arts du vide" in Kalymnos

 

 
Dave Graham sends "Baston à la maison" in St-Géry

 
 
The video playlist featuring Dave Graham

Antony Lamiche

Tony Lamiche profile - Photo © Stephan Denys
Tony Lamiche profile - Photo © Stephan Denys

France

FRA
header
Photo portrait: 
Tony Lamiche profile - Photo © Stephan Denys
Date de naissance: 
15 July 1977
Lieu de résidence: 
Hautes-Alpes, France
Formation: 
ENSA, mountain guide, ski and climbing instructor
Statut actuel: 
professional climber, mountain guide
Date d'entrée dans le Team Petzl: 
2001

A need for freedom and pure air
“My star sign is Cancer. I have my head in the clouds. My life is a constant search for physical and mental well being in the natural environment, with passionate people who exude energy. I like to share beautiful stories through photo and film, with joy and good humor. In terms of activities, bouldering is my guiding line, but climbing at crags and in the mountains have always been an important part of my life. Climbing is the most natural form of movement that exists. It’s thanks to my climbing that I live in the most beautiful places in the world endlessly discovering and meeting… I am hooked on climbing, all of it makes me happy. Skiing also, because powder skiing is an instant pleasure. In short, what I like the most and what I’m best at are bouldering, skiing and eating.”

Colonne gauche

Like a Zen garden
“My favorite places are bouldering spots because they have a truly unique energy; Rockland in South Africa is a good example. It’s a little bit like a magnet that attracts fitness and joy. Discovering these wild places and meeting good people is pure happiness for me.”
 
 
 
My life style can be defined in one word: free
“My network is comprised of climbers, mountaineers and freeriders. I feel close to passionate people, people who wake up in the morning with desire. The people I work with are people I feel good being with. It’s simple. The climber who inspires me the most is Philippe Ribière (Petitou). The person who has touched me the most, literally as well as figuratively, is my wife. We share everything. If I was not a professional boulderer right now, I would be a professional skier or carpenter.”
 
 
 
My objective in life is to communicate through the most beautiful images possible
“The only thing I’m missing is time. I can’t accomplish everything. I’d like to be a sports genius so that I could better understand my body and move more easily. The perfect day would start with fresh oranges for breakfast, then bouldering – I’d be happy with sandstone or granite – then biking without going too far into the red zone, then a little bit of skiing at sunset,followed by a good night amongst friends.”
 
 
 
Tony’s anecdote
“Success or failure means almost nothing. Sometimes you have to force destiny. The day I tried “The Fly” (New Hampshire, Quebec), I almost succeeded on the second try but bad weather,poor fitness… But one morning at the end of the trip – it was time to leave for another area – I woke up motivated. So just before going to the airport I took the car and went back for one last try – I sent it.”
 
 

Colonne droite
Diaporama Photos: 
Diaporama Videos: 

 
 

 
 
Video playlist featuring Tony Lamiche

Charlotte Durif

Charlotte Durif profile - Photo © Sam Bié
Charlotte Durif profile - Photo © Sam Bié

France

FRA
header
Photo portrait: 
Charlotte Durif profile - Photo © Sam Bié
Date de naissance: 
18 August 1990
Lieu de résidence: 
Bourgogne, France
Formation: 
Preparatory classes (higher mathematics and special studies), ENSMM engineering school (mechanical and microtechnology)
Statut actuel: 
student
Date d'entrée dans le Team Petzl: 
2000

In for the long haul
“I started quite naturally with my father and my brother on big, high-mountain routes where we bivvied on the glaciers. I was very young and I was immediately captivated by this environment into which I had immersed myself: nature, hiking, skiing, canyoning and via ferrata. Then I paid to go climbing indoors and I was completely hooked by this more technical style of climbing. At the spots I go to the most, I meet people who are driven by simplicity, people who are often outside the system. I find that my taste for climbing is becoming more and more influenced by their way of living. Their authenticity and their influence truly orients my life choices. I know why I climb and that is why I climb. I am in harmony with my way of being active and the peace that I get from nature. I love long, sustained routes because they allow me to settle in for the long haul. They give me the time to be more creative in solving problems one after another. This feeling hits me when I’m far above the belay and it leaves me with memories of emotionally-charged feelings and movements.”

Colonne gauche

Patience and concentration
“Nature is beautiful and amazing. The rhythms and the attention she requires for her own well-being, challenge me and not just technically. For example, when I am ski touring and I find myself face to face with chamois, bouquetins, raptors, marmots and wolves as well, it confronts me with my legitimacy to be in these places and teaches me to live with humility and respect. In climbing, a line is all that’s needed to inspire and motivate me: logical, natural, bold or improbable. At that time, I need patience, concentration and a bit of level-headed courage.”
 
 
“In France, the Gorges du Tarn has taught me everything and provided my motivation for sustained climbing. Now, it’s the Gorge du Verdon that has attracted my attention. It’s in these canyons of Verdon, rising up in their modern version of the Rive Gauche, that I find the craziest diversity. Time has produced unique geological anomalies and the climbers who originally pioneered the routes had the foresight to open only the most relevant routes that follow natural and legitimate lines. Outside of France, Kalymnos is a jewel and Spain provides some nice moments. But there are so many other exceptional places that one life is not enough to discover them all. Each time I leave I regret not being able to learn more.”
 
 
A double life
“I dream of having more time for climbing. I should optimize my time. I need to organize myself so that I can more fully benefit from my experiences. The times when I climb my best are intense in the number, frequency and diversity of routes. Sometimes it almost feels like work to reach my symbolic goals. I love my double life as a student and climber but sometimes I regret not being able to focus on giving my best for more than short periods. I would go a lot further if I was able to have more continuity in my training. But the enrichment that my studies bring me are important. Hey, my onsighting continues to improve and perhaps one day my priorities will be different.”
 
 
Bivouacs
“Bivouacs are special moments; moments that grow from imagination and fill my life. From the age of six years old, all wrapped up on the dark Oisans glacier, I have spent many nights listening to the wind shaking the tent, always alert for the slightest sound of falling rocks. There are two bivouacs that I especially remember. During the night of my twelfth birthday, I spent my ‘Happy Birthday’ at La Croix at the top of the Maurienne facing an episodic bivouac while watching the Big Dipper. I have conditioned myself to wake up often to observe her progress. At another bivouac in Sardinia, while putting up a new route, I received an invitation to relax in the ‘Hotel Supramonte’, which was hanging from the ninth pitch, in a very exposed niche.”

Colonne droite
Diaporama Photos: 
Diaporama Videos: 

Chris Sharma

Chris Sharma profile - photo © Stephan Denys
Chris Sharma profile - photo © Bernardo Gimenez

USA

USA
header
Photo portrait: 
Chris Sharma - photo © Stephan Denys
Date de naissance: 
23 April 1981
Lieu de résidence: 
Sant Llorenc de Montgai (Spain)
Statut actuel: 
professional climber
Date d'entrée dans le Team Petzl: 
1995

For me, climbing is a liberating activity
«Climbing has been my life since I was 12 years old, and has allowed me to discover the most beautiful places in the world. My specialty is hard new routes. This pursuit provides me with concrete goals in life and allows me to channel my energy. It’s my own personal way of being a part of society. I think it’s really important in my progression for climbing to stay excited and feel like you’re doing new things, and not get stuck in a rut... This year has been really cool, kind of branching out. In particular I’ve been really psyched on applying what I’ve been doing sport climbing to bigger walls, so I’ve been working on a couple multi-pitch projects, one that’s near where we live and another one in Mallorca. It’s been a whole new world and a totally different experience and really inspiring to do something new and something that’s similar at the same time. I’m really excited about taking my climbing more in that direction and at the same time, still working on some really hard projects. That’s the most important thing with your climbing, to continue climbing through your whole life. Keep renewing your inspiration someway. A big part of that is the progression, you know, trying to get stronger and do hard routes. The interesting thing in climbing is that we can keep progressing not only just in difficulty but like in our experiences, travelling and see new places and putting up new routes, just the process of doing a new first ascent and discovering the new line, that’s just a huge feeling of growth, even if it’s not the hardest route you’ve ever done, it’s still feel like you’re learning and you’re progressing in some way...»

Colonne gauche

Your favorite place?
«My favorite place is Spanish Catalonia. I moved here in 2005 and have never left. It’s now home for me. The region is unbelievable and has a huge potential for new, difficult routes. It seems like every 10-15 years the hot spots will kind of move around. Fifteen years ago, the Mecca was climbing here in southern France. Recently, in the past several years, everything’s kind of moved to Spain... it’s become this destination. It’s really a special time there. For me, when I started climbing in Catalunya, meeting Dani Andrada, it was super inspiring to climb in places like Siurana, Margalef and see all this potential at different crags, like Oliana and Santa Linya . There so many people coming through, there’s lots of fresh motivation. And for me it’s really cool, because, even though I sometimes miss living in CA and feel far away from home, I probably see my friends and family more than before because having a home base. Lots of people come and visit us and always have friends over, between September and May.»
 
Other activities?
«Other activities that I enjoy include working on my house and in my garden. My lifestyle could easily be defined as a sort of constant improvisation. My motto: be yourself. Everything that I do is linked. I try to be as genuine as possible. As with all Team Petzl athletes, I love the outdoors and I strive to be the best I can be.»
 
Do you prepare yourself differently when climbing multi-pitch routes compared to shorter routes?
«I’m still learning so much about what it takes to climb some of these bigger walls but it’s just at least the process of establishing the route and bolting a new line, it’s way more complicated because you’re way higher off the ground, and a 7 pitch route is essentially 7 routes so the logistics and the time it takes to establish the lines, it’s a lot more involved. But sure, strategically, when it’s time to sending as well, it’s going to be a lot more complicated. I think for me, they totally compliment each other. Maybe I’ll go climbing some of the multi-pitch projects for a couple of days and get really inspired again by doing some new things and then it’ll get me really excited to go back and try some of my single pitch projects again. And the same way, I’ll try some of these really hard projects that are really at my limit, that I’ve been working on, that are maybe around 9b+ or something; it’s hard to maintain that motivation all the time, to try such hard moves. So it’s really cool to mix it up and to go back and climb on something that’s equally challenging but in a different way.»
 
Are hard multi-pitch routes the next progression in cutting edge climbing?
«I definitely see taking what we have been doing sport climbing and applying it to bigger walls as being a natural progression. I guess in the same way that I was really focused on bouldering for quite a few years, and applying those gymnastic sequences to longer sport climbs. So it’s just the progression of that. Taking all the experiences we had, mixing them all together and applying them to do something new. I’m definitely excited about that. And as I said, just to mix it up and to keep rejuvenating your approach to climbing. And you know, after several years not focusing on bouldering, am also really excited to get back into bouldering a little bit more just to keep it fresh, you know.  And at the same time, bouldering is really the essence of hard climbing and so, some of these really hard single pitch projects, I feel like that’s going to be the way to progress is to go back to the bouldering roots, working on that pure power, and mixing it back up and always try to recycle your ideas and your motivation so it doesn’t get stale.»
 
So you’ll be doing more bouldering?
«One of the things I really love about bouldering is just the ability of being really spontaneous. Climbing shoes in your backpack and see what happens, you know. That’s intriguing. With route climbing, it definitely requires more planning, so… but it’s interesting, like with bouldering, because, a lot of the intrigue to bouldering for me was the spontaneity of being able to go wherever you want and, to a certain extent it’s true, but at a certain point, the boulders start getting so big and the landings start getting so bad that you know you need maybe 10 - 15 crash pads for a boulder problem. At that point, it’s a lot less cumbersome to have a backpack with some climbing gear and climb with a rope. So, you have to find the balance, I guess.»
 
Any message to younger climbers?
«I would encourage all the kids out there that have been climbing for several years or just getting into climbing to focus on having a good time. For me, it’s about finding the quality routes and not necessarily about just the big numbers but really about your experience and enjoying the climbing. I would encourage them to get out and climb on all those cool routes that they get a chance to do. Climbing is such an amazing sport in that way. It’s more than just a sport, it’s a lifestyle, you can travel and see so many beautiful places, meet so many cool people, so I think we’re all really fortunate to be involved in such a great sport.»

Colonne droite
Diaporama Photos: 
Diaporama Videos: 

Chris Sharma featured videos - from BigUP productions
Video Chris Sharma
 
Video Chris Sharma
 
Video Chris Sharma
 
Video Chris Sharma
 
Video Chris Sharma
 
Video Chris Sharma
 
 

The Infinity Lane (100m-single pitch) flashed by Chris Sharma

 
  

Video playlist featuring Chris Sharma

 

Dani Andrada

Dani Andrada profile - photo © Stephan Denys
Dani Andrada profile - photo © Sam Bié

Spain

ESP
header
Photo portrait: 
Dani Andrada - photo © Keith Ladzinski
Date de naissance: 
15 July 1975
Lieu de résidence: 
Cornudella de Montsant (Spain)
Formation: 
The school of life
Statut actuel: 
Professional climber
Date d'entrée dans le Team Petzl: 
2000

 

“I’ve been climbing since I was 12 years old.
Climbing has always been my passion.
It has now become my profession, and thankfully it is one of the things in life that I enjoy the most.”

Colonne gauche

 
“My specialty is multi-pitch big wall sport climbing and putting up new routes. But I also like bouldering. I love just being in nature. My favorite climbing spots are in Spain.”

Colonne droite
Diaporama Photos: 
Diaporama Videos: 

Daila Ojeda

Daila Ojeda - © Sam Bié
Daila Ojeda - © Sam Bié

Spain

ESP
header
Photo portrait: 
Daila Ojeda - © Sam Bié
Date de naissance: 
30 June 1981
Lieu de résidence: 
Catalonia (Spain)
Formation: 
Training for climbing instructor certification
Statut actuel: 
Professional climber
Date d'entrée dans le Team Petzl: 
2007

Climbing is formative
«I started climbing when I was 19 years old, after having watched a bouldering competition in the village where I was born. It completely changed my life. Before, I participated in mostly sea-oriented sports such as bodyboarding and surfing. I was always at the beach, which is perfectly normal when you live in the Canary Islands.
My friends from Gran Canaria taught me that climbing is more than a sport, that it is a true way of life. This experience changed me. I temporarily left the island and moved to Catalonia, one of the best places in the word for rock climbing. I went from a maritime paradise to a rock paradise. I have always had a passion for the outdoors. In the Canary Islands, both the ocean and nature are an integral part of the culture. I started surfing when I was very young. I’ve always been linked to this sort of activity, where the rules and traditions form a union between nature and oneself.»

Colonne gauche

«With the exception of family, climbing is the most important thing in my life. Thanks to climbing I met my boyfriend, Chris. I’ve met the most incredible people through climbing. I’ve been to places that you just can’t experience if you don’t climb. In the end climbing allowed me to become who I am today. I’ve been lucky to be able to experience this discovery. For me climbing is a special kind of physical activity, formative activity that teaches you about the absolute. Climbing keeps me in contact with nature and teaches me to respect the environment. It allows me to discover who I am each and every day. Climbing helps me to persevere, to not give up or to succumb easily, to overcome my fears. I’m good at climbing multi-pitch routes that require a lot of stamina. These types of routes allow me to endure, to commit.»
 
 
My favorite places
«In general I prefer places that are calm, far from the city, where I can listen to the silence. My favorite places are on the island of Gran Canaria, where there are waves, the smell of the Atlantic Ocean, and a strong-willed local population. In addition I like the Spanish countryside and of course my memories of childhood. I also like where I currently live in Sant Llorenc de Montgai in Catalonia, with its unbelievable rock walls that extend as far as the eye can see. My life is simple and laid-back. I enjoy drinking a cup of coffee in the morning, walking my dog, and going climbing with Chris.»
 
My goal
«To bring kids climbing to the most spectacular routes possible and to teach them to respect nature.»
 

Colonne droite
Diaporama Photos: 
Diaporama Videos: