Jean Troillet

Jean Troillet profile - © Jean Yves Fredriksen
  • 10 March 1948
  • Valais (Switzerland)
  • Mountain guide, ski instructor, canyoneering guide
  • Himalayist, helli ski guide, speaker, conference organizer
  • 2000

«I have been a mountain guide since 1969. I became seriously involved in mountaineering in the 1980s when I began organizing expeditions to the Himalayas. I would say I’m a high altitude expert. I discovered my passion for climbing at altitude by accepting the invitation of a friend to go to the West Pillar of Makalu in 1982. Mountaineering has created many great friendships throughout my life. I enjoy the experience of being with friends and the elegance of taking the same path together. What I dislike are political borders. I like to reflect upon the notable achievements that have been reported by the press. Things like: “The team of Lorétan-Troillet succeeded in climbing 8000-meter peaks in the Himalayas, climbing through day and night, with only a minimum of gear, almost nothing"

«These days, the thing that motivates me to go on expeditions to climb 8000-meter peaks, at 63 years old with a full, and successful career behind me, are the adventures that I experience with my friends who have amazing spirits and infinite respect for people and nature. Being tied into a rope with my friends is more important than any summit. In the past I have had the opportunity to climb with some extraordinary partners and even today I get to climb with friends like Martial Dumas, Jean-Yves Fredriksen or Sébastien Devrient our cameraman. These young, strong, friendly climbers contribute their technical ability to the team, and they draw upon my experience at high altitude. It’s not up to me to impose anything on the team, we each just contribute our strengths.»
«To be an explorer is to have a certain spirit. Is it instinctive? Maybe. You have to love to discover yourself in the process of searching for something. The areas I prefer are the Himalaya, the South Pole, and the Great Canadian North. Above everything else I love the beauty of the wilderness, and above all, the people who live in these landscapes and who have become my close friends. What I love to do most is to walk in the wilderness. Walking on foot is the foundation of my sport. I draw my inspiration from adventure and discovery. The qualities needed to want to attempt an 8000-meter peak are inevitably to have a tenacious character and a great capacity to accept suffering. Most character traits necessary for altitude climbing are instinctive to me and connected to my personality. They are also exemplified through my sport, which requires me to be patient at times and have the ability not to be too stubborn or strong-minded. While climbing at altitude I have experienced times of suffering that were very painful. In these cases, you have to know when to let go and to come back for another attempt at another time I also learned during these experiences that to get angry with yourself helps you forget the suffering.»
Victory, that’s life
«This is my motto. We feel alive when we reach our limits. For example, at basecamp, we have only the essentials, but at the same time we have everything we need to be happy. We rediscover the simple pleasures of daily life.»
«One thing is certain: when I travel with friends, I return with these friends.»

picto plus Major ascents

Ten summits over 8000 meters, all completed in alpine style without oxygen:

  • K2 (8611 m)
  • Dhaulagiri (8167 m)
  • Everest (8848 m)
  • Cho Oyu (8201 m)
  • Shisha Pangma (8046 m)
  • Makalu (8463 m)
  • Lhotse (8516 m)
  • Kangchenjunga (8586 m)
  • Gasherbrum I (8068 m)
  • Gasherbrum II (8035 m).


picto rss Other informations

- L’aventure absolue: text by Pierre Ruyer, édition Favre, 2001
- Un homme, des 8000: A collection of stories by Pierre-Dominique Chardonnens, éditions Flammarion, Arthaud, 2005