Dernières News

Around the new year, my fiancé, Chris, was writing a long list of his goals and turned to me  "What are your climbing goals?"

"Just one," I replied.  "I want to climb 5.14." 

For me, this would not just be an objective accomplished for the year but – if I could pull it off – a lifetime climbing goal.

It is 14h59, Sunday, May 20th, in Oike Park, by the peaceful shores of lake Kawaguchi. As the award ceremony reaches its end, Seiji Okamoto and Ryu Kodama, the last two runners, cross the finish line hand-in-hand to a huge round of applause and are welcomed onto the stage by both the organizing committee and the winners of the races. Ryu Kodama proudly shows a bag full of trash he picked up on the trail and carried all the way.

Behind every great send, there's a great belayer.
The GRIGRI 2 helps the belayer work in unison with the climber.

Ethan Pringle has been putting some serious effort into Jumbo Love recently. That's the 5.15b "king line" bolted by Randy Levitt and first climbed by Chris Sharma in 2008. Since Sharma's send, no one else has climbed the route, which tracks for 250 feet up the center of the severely overhanging 3rd tier of an area known as Mt. Clark, on the Nevada-California border. Pringle is no stranger to Mt. Clark or to Jumbo Love -- he worked the line with Sharma back in 2007. Now, he's back, and dedicated to sending one of the world's most epic sport climbs.

Macedonia, the new place to be

It's been a really long time since I've written anything on my blog… Lot's of things have happened in the last 6 months, The most important one being the renovation work I've been doing in my new place.

After having spent the last few years on the road and living out of a suitcase, I really felt the need to stop and find myself a home.