After several years of absence, Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda have returned to Ceuse on a quest for new projects. This cliff has a special significance for Chris, as it was here, more than ten years ago that he did the first ascent of the inspiring line, Biographie (5.15a). This time, at the Face de Rat, away from the summer crowds, Chris found a new line to bolt.
After coming to Céüse so many times, it's amazing to come here and still find some first ascents that are just waiting to be done. You can see this the Face de Rat wall from everywhere. It's such an obvious wall, but there's not that many routes on it. So it was such a privilege to put the first bolts in the middle of this wall. I wasn't really sure what to expect. It's a super overhanging blank-looking wall. You can see some pockets but you really have to look closer to see if there are holds.
I just went up there and was happily surprised to find an amazing sequence with really cool moves on these nice pockets. It's just barely possible... It's really an excellent project, I'm excited to come back and try to send it.
It's also cool to leave something behind, for others to try. I can contribute in a way, to the big collection of historical routes that have done here, by Patrick Edlinger, Jean Christophe Lafaille, Arnaud Petit... It's cool to come and give my own interpretation of the climbing at Céüse and find another really cool line. Even if I don't do it, it's there for other people to try, and that can help the next generation to have some big projects, like Biographie was for me 10 years ago...
-- Chris Sharma
Daila Ojeda climbing on the route "Face de rat" (8a+ - 5.13c)
For more information
- See more photos and read the interview of Chris, where he talks about his upcoming projects.
- The complete Team Petzl profile of Chris (biography, photos, videos etc.)
- The complete Team Petzl profile of Daila (biography, photos, videos etc.)
- Watch the video Chris' 2001 redpoint of Biographie
- Chris is climbing with the latest Petzl harness, helmet and quickdraw (available in early 2013)