by Beth Rodden
Hello everyone! Sorry if this blog is somewhat short, I am still typing one handed, which makes for slow typing and not very much patience on my part.
Just to give you a little history…I tore my labarum in June of 2009 while bouldering in Yosemite. The boulder problem that I tore it on is fun, but far from spectacular or memorable, which seems to be typical for me (I tore my ligament in my finger on the purple problem on my woody). But, none the less, I found myself deciding to rest for 6 weeks and then try and rehab and climb with the labarul tear. I went on an amazing trip to South Africa and thought I was coming back stronger than ever until I hurt a pulley on the opposite hand. While trying to favor the left hand and the right shoulder, I realized that my shoulder prevented me from climbing a variety of styles. Yes, I could climb vertical finger cracks, where my hands were always in front of me, but as soon as I tried wide cracks, gastons or steep climbing, my shoulder held me back, and I was faced with a very tough decision.
One thing that I have always envisioned in my life is climbing. Ever since I started climbing fifteen years ago, I cannot imagine a future without some sort of climbing. And in the end, I decided that longevity of climbing in my life far outweighed the six months or a year this might take me to recover from.
One thing that I think I am very blessed with through all of this is an amazing doctor, Dr. Isono. His office is laden with pictures of athletes from all types of sports: NFL players, baseball players, swimmers, marital arts, etc. which is very comforting to a professional athlete and exercise nut like me. He takes generous amounts of time to explain things to me, which usually eases my mind.
The last few days before my surgery, I had a last hoorah at climbing. My finger was slowly getting better after taking a month hiatus from climbing, and my shoulder allowed me to climb pretty easy things. Honestly, it felt a little strange to be climbing the day before surgery, and made me question why I might actually be getting the surgery. But sure enough, after an attempt on a slightly overhanging climb gave me the feeling that my shoulder might pop out of socket, I knew I needed to go under the knife.
I put together a short video on the surgery and the week or two afterwards. I am feeling better, but know I have a long road ahead.






Facebook
Twitter
Comments
physical therapy
Wed, 23/12/2009 - 16:44 — Calvin (not verified)Hope you recover quickly!
I read on your Sportiva post about South Africa that you'd been told you've been climbing using the "wrong" muscles - "using my small shoulder muscles to move upward instead of my large back muscles" ... I'm guessing a physio told you that? Would it be possible for me to get some contact info on the place/person you're working with? I have some shoulder & back issues and I'd like to get some assessments done by the right folks who are familiar with climbers.
Don't know if you'll see this question, but thought it worth a shot to ask.
Again, best wishes on your recovery and future climbing!
Calvin
injuries aren't all bad
Wed, 23/12/2009 - 20:31 — Elijah Ball (not verified)elijah
Thanks!
Mon, 04/01/2010 - 22:26 — Beth Rodden (not verified)Calvin, I've been fortunate enough to have several wonderful PT's over the years. When I lived in Colorado, Harmony Hand and Physical Therapy Center, was amazing. Brenda, who owns the clinic, worked on my shoulders and fingers, and then therapists there truly understand an athlete and especially climbers. They are located in Ft. Collins. Now, living in back in California, my orthopedic surgeon, Dr. Isono in Emeryville, is incredible. He is unlike most docs I've been to before and takes a lot of time with you, understands that you want to be back to 100% again, etc. And my PT out here, Sports and Orthopedic Specialists in Oakland, are equally great.
Thanks again!
Beth
Good luck!
Wed, 06/01/2010 - 02:03 — Melissa (not verified)Get better soon!
Mon, 16/08/2010 - 23:28 — Josh (not verified)Surgery Memories and Climbing
Mon, 30/08/2010 - 07:09 — Pam (not verified)Dear Beth
Tue, 05/10/2010 - 21:46 — Anonymous (not verified)My name is Ali I am from Iran I saw your picturs there was very very nice and interasting
i like see you in iran and Accompany you in rock climbing
there are in iran Mountains and Caves and River and Valleys ......... do you like teravel to iran?
I hope see you in iran soon
Best Regards
Ali
ouch!
Tue, 02/11/2010 - 02:53 — physical therapy los angeles (not verified)-taylor
Post new comment